Ultreya

Madrid is a winter wonderland

2009-01-11T17:18:00.004+01:00

IMG_9582_x, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

We woke up on the 9th to news that it had been snowing all night and that it would be coooooold outside. Damn, this was my first early morning back at work with no boots to wear.... I tentatively went out and found, to my delight, Madrid nestled under a soft, powdery layer of white snow, with plenty more falling.

I watched it fall through my first class, craftily wrangled my way out of the afternoon classes, woke Ruben up and went to the Retiro to enjoy this unexpected treat together.

We took some photos, which don't really capture the mood, but its the best I can share. Click on this photo to go to my Flickr site if you want to have a look!

The next day there was still alot of snow on the ground but the cars had arm loads scrapped off them by the kids having fights after school, the sidewalks had turned to ice but the sky was clear and blue and an early full moon rose above it all.

Magic!!

post camino thoughts....

2008-03-31T11:05:00.004+01:00

ok, so this trip to the north was meant to be an escape from the smoky crowded noisy city to the calm peace of the seaside and the relaxing rhythm of walking each day and meeting new people each night. I was prepared for all weather and really looking forward to the challenge.

Sadly, it was not all i hoped.

The weather all over Spain for Easter was strange - I am used to the joke about it always raining over Easter in Sydney, but apparently they have the same joke here.... and rain t did.

I dont really mind walking in the rain, in fact its quite calming if its not flooding your path or making it full of sticky mud......but my problem this time was waterproofing. My "yes, maam, its totally waterproof" pack cover is not as waterproof as I would have hoped. Much like sleeping in a tent in the rain, when you touch the sides, little rivers of rain soak your bed. Well, these little rivers made great friends with my dry set of clothes, so after a very long and very frustrating day searching for non-existent way-markings, I pulled into the "closed for renovations" pilgrim hostel, trudged on with the last of my energy to an overpriced room i a hotel to find every item wet enough to make them unwearable. So I passed a lonely night rotating my clothes over the spluttering heater and watched "FAME" in spanish.

I stayed in the north for 5 days and then decided to cut my loses and go back to Madrid. In all that time, with misdirections, closed or non existent accommodation, easter prices, and total lack of "camino spirit" I only managed to walk about 18-20 km on 4 of the days and nowhere near the 117km I hoped to cover. I was so disappointed - and it was temporary - that I felt like Id "failed" or something. It took me a day or two to settle back after the aborted mission and now I see it for what it was - a good break, a bit of reconnaissance, and ann opportunity to see Bilbao (big and industrial) and Santander (beachy and lovely).

So after complaining to Ruben, he reminded me that we are only a 4 hour train ride away and can easily go back in the warmer months when the hostels are open and enjoy it together!

So, not an amazing adventure but there is always something to take away from these things. Plus I got to talk to cows and goats again in twisting winding country roads, so it was worth it for that alone.

Bilbao DAY 1

2008-03-17T08:36:00.003+01:00

After being a little nervous and apprehensive this week I finally boarded the train and took the 6 hours to Bilbao, main port of the Basque region. And I feel really good now - once I start one of these trips, the nerves wear off once Im on the road and everything pans out in a calm, orderly way. Of course I dont know what Im doing or where Im going, but that means that I can be flexible and see what happens naturally. So, today I feel strong (mentally) and a litle underprepared physically. Today will be a good test for what my body is capable of this week....

I would like to start the Camino today but I dont know where it is, so now that ive had the complimentary breakfast from my hostel (very nice one here), I will see if the lady at reception knows anything, and if so, Ill get started. Otherwise Ill need to stay here to the day, venture into the centre, wait for the Information to open and get some maps etc there. But think Id rather head off.

ITs a grey and cool day but thats perfect walking weather for me. As long as it doesnt bucket down, Ill be happy.

So, more soon - Im off to investigate.....

Eve of the Camino Norte - Easter wanderings

2008-03-15T20:18:00.002+01:00

OK - so 2 years after jetting off for my 1000km Camino de Santiago experience, and after swearing that I would¨"one day" get back on the road, I am on the verge of setting off on a new Camino adventure.

Perhaps after the first effort I would feel more calm and relaxed but Im afraid thats not so. Ok, so this one isnt so far from "home", but still its a route totally unknown.

In order to have a new challenge I decided to not return to the Camino Frances - the route I took in 2006, and one that is very popular and populated, and instead have opted for the one by the sea!!

I take the train to Bilbao tomorrow then will walk about 170 km through the week to Santander.

I know very little about this way except that it has many fewer people, less places to stay and less markings along the road.

BUT, Im going to be in the fresh coastal air surrounded by the best scenery and food in Spain so Im sure Ill cope if I go off track accidently (or otherwise)

So Ill check in again soon and update you on my progress!! Wish me luck

ULTREYA!!!

Morocco *** Part 2

2008-02-07T23:31:00.000+01:00

......ok where was I?

ah yes, we had just had a week in Marrakesh and the desert and we were boarding a bus to the coast....

well the next 6 hours felt like a lifetime and they were painful.

When we bought our tickets we were told to be there 1/2 hour early, which we were. But the man at the desk just waved us in the general direction of the bus station door but couldnt give us any closer idea of the location of the bus. We walked up and down the bus bays..... noone had heard of this company. hmmmmm

When we decided to try the random buses parked in the shadows o the far side of the station we were shown our chariot!!!! We chose to be disbelievers at first as the name on the bus was nothing like the one on our tickets, but lo, this was our fate - a big square blue 1960-style bus with the luggage stored on a rack on the roof. Not that we are bus snobs..... far from it, but this bus, circa 1960 would have been in great condition. We didnt see any evidence that anyone had attempted to keep it in good nick in all that time.

The too-cool guy who loaded the luggage looked to be our driver also but after seating us giving us - (the token foreigners)the front seat, we was replaced at the wheel by a hooded older man. Good thing because the kid had stalled us twice before leaving the lot.

Then it started to get fun..... first, I was dirty! well, physically yes, but now my mood was dark too..... these special seat are the worst. Ruben was sitting in his and was tiled backwards and seemed quite comfy. My seat however was pitched forward - the seat and the back so that you had to engage all your leg muscles to keep from sliding off. Now this old bomb didnt have a barrier in front of us at the glass windscreen so it was a case of "flex or fly". Ruben, being a true sweetheart, decided I must be totally overreacting and offered to change seats. Oh how quickly his mood changed..... Poor pet! The trip was long but more because it was scary. The hills outside of town were steep, and in the dark, seemed treacherous - with no side rails, squealing brakes and endless bends. Rubens face darkened..... I became more pale.... Ive never actually been really imagined certain death before this night.....

So from 9pm til 3 am we enjoyed this journey and were dumped in a tip of a town outside of Agadir..... I promptly lost a bag in the early morning stupour, the taxi overcharged us, the first hotel wouldn't let us stay because they seem to have a problem with men taking prostitutes to hotels after the bars shut and I was considered one..... so when we could find a place we could afford they gave us a room next to the elevator shaft and two single beds. After all this we had managed to turn against each other......

So in the morning it all came out and we said all the things we were over reacting about and checked out. But our luck was changing..... the price was half what we were quoted last night, and the ain had stopped so we loaded our packs on our back and walked to the sea.

Later Ruben commented on the effect the sea has ob me. He said that he really noticed the tension disappearing as we approached the beach and the sea air. He is a mountain guy and I see the same in him when we were up high, but at sea level, I am calmest, it seems! We took off our packs and had a make-up hug near the shore when suddenly a wave, bigger than all the rest came up and washed over our feet - still in boots and jeans..... ok ok, ocean - we need to get our feet wet. We too off our wet things and enjoyed the tranquility of the sea together.

But then someting happened - we saw a beer sign!! OMG - we havent had a beer...... for AGES!! With dripping pants we presented to a posh cafe and had a COLD beer(even harder than finding a beer in Morocco is finding a cold one) and a plate of fish!! Ahhh, now we are both happy.

But ready to leave this tourist trap. With lighter hearts we trecked out of the tourist frige and through the "real" Agadir to the taxi station. Normally you need to find six people who want to go your way before the taxi will leave but we decided to deserved some comfort (?) and bought the whole back seat rather than share it with 4 people (!!) The trip was amazing because it was 1: fast 2: comfortable and 3: safe..... oh, how quickly your needs become basic after a scare.

Then there was Essaouira!!! Go to Morocco and go to Essaouira! No more to suggest! This town is gorgeous! The old part is very small and walled but full of character unlike the vacuum of Agadir. White walls and blue doors and windows. The pounding sea behind the walls, the circling gulls, the atmospheric salt mist in the air. And the people are different. The guide book was spot on when they said that, unlike the hustle in other cities, the touts here are almost apologetic.... Curiously though its where we also saw our first late night local drunks.

Ahhh, after 3 days it was time to move on, but with a promise that we would try to get back here - perhaps for their annual music festival every June.

Then we hardened ourselves for Marrakech - we were not so naive this time so more relaxed but it really is much more of a tourist place, which gets tiring. We stocked up on souvenirs, had one last body scrub, a million cups of tea and a few more magnificent OJ's before taking the EasyJet flight home with alot of whinging Spaniards.... We suspect that they were only there in a weekend flight and didnt have a chance to relax.... We felt great!

I lived in that holiday bubble for a month..... well worth it!!

All the pics are on Flickr if you want to have a look....

Las Dunas

2008-01-22T19:39:00.001+01:00

IMG_6343, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Near the Algerian border, these dunes are not the largest in Morocco, but they are really beautiful at sunset as the light changes

HAPPY NEW YEAR

2008-01-22T18:48:00.001+01:00

IMG_6524, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

The earth keeps spinning and for once I could see this a little....... the stars spinning overhead as 2007 became 2008. The palm trees in the foreground reminding me that I am just a small earthling watching this incredible display....

View from our roof in Marrakesh - WOW

2008-01-22T17:44:00.001+01:00

IMG_6910, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

All I could here was "WOW"...... I was preparing for a day wandering around Marrakesh and Ruben went up to the roof of our guesthouse to look at the view for the day and....WOW.

After days of smog and pollution we had a clear sunny day and the MOUNTAINS - they are breathtaking, so close and so grand! I love the contrast of the palm trees that are everywhere in the city and the snow on the High Atlas mountains.

the serenity.....

2008-01-22T12:40:00.001+01:00

IMG_6224, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

this night was incredible..... the stars were breathtaking in their multitude. There were only 6 of us - the two Irish, the two Berber guides and us

This is the communal eating tent were we had a tajine of beef and sang traditional berber songs after sunset.

These are my first attempts at star photos and star trails - truely amazing site combined with the silence of the desert - I was in love

in the desert

2008-01-22T12:37:00.001+01:00

IMG_6310, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Ruben and I in the desert - we spent 2 nights here and quickly learnt to tie a turban (although these are our first, poor attempts).

It was very peaceful and very beautiful here

Morocco *** Part 1

2008-01-21T10:10:00.000+01:00

Morocco was amazing in so many ways - the natural environment, the people, the habits, the food, the variety to be experienced......

We had total culture shock when we arrived - walking the streets was the strangest - the little lanes near our riad were filled with tooting motorbikes laden with upto 4 people, babies hanging off handlebars, gas cylinders between legs, crates of eggs on the back...... all tooting but none slowing as they approached - if you are on two legs, you move yourself out of their way....FAST.... The mess, dirt, smells of cooking on the street, piles of fruit everywhere to be sold, old men fixing bikes or sewing, women covered and carrying trays of bread on their heads...... etc etc. And this was just going down our street.

When we reached the main square of Marrakesh we were in for a new shock....
snakes charmed into a dance, tables of false teeth, ladies selling crocheted hats, vendors selling food, smoke, people calling to us, please buy my hats, buy my lamps, buy my henna, very cheap, good price for you, where you from? hola!!

phew...... we stopped for a meal and watched with wide, newly- arrived- tourist eyes! We fell to bed exhausted.

The next day, Christmas day, was only different in that we saw all this craziness in daylight - we tackled the bustling souks, too overwhelmed to buy anything, all of is is so lovely - i wanted one of everything ;-)

Our riad, a converted old house in the centre was our respite, and our host, Khalil made us mint tea, breakfast and lit a fire in the afternoon, where we sat and chatted - us to offload some of this new information and for him, to practice his english. We had a beautiful terrace outside our room, and we could see the magnificent mountains just outside the city and the many mosque minarets spiking all over the city. After 3 days we ventured out of Marrakesh!

We left watches and phones behind and soon kept time with the sun and the 5 calls for prayer everyday from the mosques. Our first night bus took us to Oarzazate then on to Zagora, a town fueled by tourists going to the desert....us included. Overwhelmed with offers from people for taxis, camels, camps etc..... every man had a camel, everyone had an "office" and we were invited for tea..... We joined forces with two Irish, Kenn and Cindy, from the bus, thinking we would be stronger with numbers, but we were still total suckers and got "took" straight away.

Despite wanting to go independently we signed up for a tour and it turned out to be the best option as its not so easy to get to the big dunes alone. We crammed into a "grand taxi" - all 10 of us!! 8 adults, a toddler and a baby in a sedan!!

The scenery was breathtaking..... collected our 4X4 and chased the sun west. After a long bumpy ride we caught the sunset from our isolated camp site amongst the bigger dunes. Spectactular!!! All alone with the stars was an experience..... My neck was sore from staring.....

Strangely, it was a postcard “romance” moment but it was too big to be romantic..... the sky was so huge and so full of sparkly lights, that it was enough for each of us to concentrate on – Im glad we could be there together, but it was a beautiful, powerful, private moment.

Our desert time was really specail because we all felt so removed from “normal” life – we were fed and watered, taken on camel rides at sunset, climbed dunes, slept in burlap tents, and generally let time pass in a very gentle, unhurried way.

Our arrival back in Zagora, although a small town, was a shock after this quiet time. Cindy and Kenn left and we stayed on until we could think of something better to do. Without really discussing it, we fell into a great rhythm of taking everything as it came – neither of us operated with more urgentcy than the other and we could be totally relaxed.

One overwhelming menory of this day was how totally dirty we were......we STUNK! I hunted down the town hammam for a scrub and we pooled our only remained clean clothes and washed the rest. The laundry lady used to travel a lot and completely understood the importance of cleann clothes to a backpacker and stayed open half an hour longer to make sure we didnt have to spend another night dirty!! A sweetheart!

My trip to the hammam was amazing – but perhaps a story fpr another time. The whole muslim experience was incredible for me..... but later, i think – I will go into more detail.

Our next friends on this journey were three guys we met in the ATM line when the town seemed to run out of cash...... Morad, Imad and Hassan – three school friends who had come to town for the Extreme Marathon in the desert. After the first chance encounter we ended up in the same camp ground and shared coke and cakes for NYE, laughing a lot, askiung lots of questions about Muslim life and generally cracking each other up. We stayed up til 4am being silly.

We said goodbye and Ruben and I ventured off inour aim to get to the coast....... Its longerthan it seems on the map and was quite a painful journey, but we survived.....

But thats another story.....

between shifts....

2007-12-11T02:17:00.001+01:00

365DAYS_6DEC_Day38, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

after the work do last week, i walked the streets home - the are quiet and peaceful, but still populated with the night workers, the silent army who clean and sweep and wash away the grim of the day before. These bins will soon be emptied and the city will be ready for another day. I too, need some sleep for the new day......because they pour fiercely strong drinks around ére!!

hike in Patones, North of Madrid

2007-12-11T02:14:00.001+01:00

365DAYS_24Nov_Day27, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

a fabulous day in the mountains north of madrid. finally, we had time and a car and a sunny cold autumn day to walk, talk and think.

a quick catchup

2007-12-11T01:36:00.000+01:00

Ive had trouble logging on lately, so very behind here......

As a very brief update, we went to Toledo last weekend as we had a 4 day holiday......ooooo the Spanish are crafty with their elongated weekends. ITs a lovely town with lots of sweets and swords and twisty windy cobbled streets. We didnt have enough time to see everything so we will try to go back another time - perhaps when there is snow as its supposed to be beautiful.

WE experienced a rocky start to the day when are little beast got caught on this wee hill. Poor pet had no guts to go up the hill without momentum and a standing start so after much wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, we got a tow truck to drag us to flat land where we were safe...... a little embarrassing and stressful but after a 3 hour delay we could start our exploration of Toledo. As a city that was occupied by the Moors, Christians an Jews AT THE SAME TIME, its got an amazing place in the history of spain and really, in the history of the world, in terms of shared learnings, cooperative translations of texts and religious acceptance.

With Ruben working and studying hard, Ive spent most weekends in his village while he recovers. its getting colder and we love walking the dog through the huge piles of Autumn leaves and rugging up in our hats and scarves.

His mum has been giving me cooking lessons and this week we cleaned and gutted boquerones (like fresh anchovies) and marinated them in vinegar - delicious! BUt really a gross process that was hard to enjoy. Eyes and brains and guts have never been a favourite of mine.

Only two weeks to Morocco and we have a place to stay for the first three nights, for Christmas itself, then we are free to get lost in the southern areas that we want to explore. Probably will hire a car and we will be taking the tent, so a few nights of relative luxury will be heaven!!

Its 2am and i must get to sleep, but will try to update more soon........zzzzzz

Our night in the mountains of La Pedriza

2007-09-29T15:39:00.001+01:00

La Pedriza, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

A few weeks ago, Gunther, Ruben and I hired a car and went exploring in La Pedriza, a natural park in the north of Madrid. We arrived late, but had enough time to walk the short 1 1/2 hours up the valley to a good camping spot. Camping is technically illegal, in that you can't put up a tent, but there are alot of people who start waking at the end of the day or in the middle of the night to reach the good rock climbing spots near the top. They stay the night so they can start climbing first thing.

We found a great cave that was filled with candles and a straw covered floor. We had a picnic lunch and spent the afternoon exploring the hills and getting attacked by the bushes and rocks (Ruben and I) or reading quietly on the "throne" rock, enjoying the view (Gunther). We enjoyed the sunset, chatting and joking until Ruben reported that our snug little cave was teaming with spiders after dark.....

Last minute change of plans.... and now its dark, so we scraped together our things, crossed a little river and went back to the spot we saw in the afternoon - a giant rock with an overhang perfect for protecting you against dew. We cut our own straw, laid out our mats and settled in with our head torches for dinner.

So peaceful and mild - what a great night. The stars were amazing with almost no light pollution in the sky. In fact I could hardly sleep - after relaxing and realising that we wouldnt be attacked by wild deer, I couldn't stop watching the bright fires in the sky!! A wonderful experience.

The next morning we woke to the sound of an army of climbers ascending the hill. We were smelly and tired so we stopped at a waterhole and had a little bath in the icy water. We finished the day with a much anticipated beer at the cafe near the car park while we planned our day exploring Segovia.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Camino Mosaic

2007-09-29T13:55:00.001+01:00

Camino Mosaic, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Playing with my photos Ive made a mosaic of some Camino photos. It all seems so long ago now, that sometimes I have to look at them to remind myself that it was real.

I sometimes think Ive been still too long and Im considering taking some time to walk the north coast route next year. BUT, its just a thought for now..... Getting back out there will be tough after my cruisy lifestyle in Madrid..... Wait and see if I make anything of it ;-)

coming back...

2007-09-10T12:08:00.001+01:00

coming back to Madrid was surprisingly great! I felt sad leaving everyone at home - and after a few odd experiences I found myself sitting on the plane feeling very flat indeed..... But after I nearly fainted, cracked my head against the wall in the toilets and found myself lying with my feet in the air outside the loos as the hostess offered my oxygen, that my mind moved to other things..... I treated myself to a massage in Bangkok, had a near-miss with an upgrade, then spent the rest of the 20 hours watching really bad movies and eating "traditional British" meals....yummmmo!!

So to find Elsa and Ruben at the airport, with open arms was a real lift!! We spent the next 4 days recovering from jetlag - Ruben even thinks he "caught" it because he was so tired too, but after that we took a really great weekend in the country to visit the village where his mother´s family comes from.

Grandma and grandpa are living in the house in Almodovar del Campo for the summer with their 12 year old dog, Copy and new kitten "Rocky" (or "Chico" depending on who you ask!). We spent 4 days eating, sleeping, walking, translating, eating, drinking, sleeping, another meal, one more walk and a final sleep before driving back to Madrid! Really peaceful and beautiful.

The village is in the province of La Mancha and is filled with reminders of their most famous character, Don Quixote! The town windmill was just near the house and looked lovely at sunset.

All meals were shared on the terrace beneath the grape vine trellis. There is a shower hose hooked up on one side so we could all cool off after a walk on a hot day. One of their tricks is to sit the "new person" under the shower and surprise them, but I was forewarned so could be properly dressed when the joke was played.

We took a walk in the countryside amongst thousands of olive trees. The village is small but the land owned by the villages is one of the largest in the region. Every morning we walked from house to house buying the choicest tomatoes, lettuce, zucchinis and watermelons from the people who picked them that morning or the day before. Preparing fresh farm food every meal - doesn't get better than that!

The pimientos dried in the sun in the back yard and they will eventually dry completely in the sunlight to be ground into a powder to make paprika! Maybe if there is enough I can get a small amount for cooking ;-)

The area is also famous for the curtains on the doorways - in the civil war years, the wood for the doors was too expensive, so colourful curtains were made to keep the cool air in and the flies out. They now have doors also, but the tradition remains.

Buying the garlic was a big deal - there is only one person that is worth buying from in the area but they weren´t answering the doorbell when we got there, and then when they were home I'm told it was a bit expensive at 8euros for 30 odd heads of garlic! Looks great though.

Bar El Pajarillo - an institution for the family and where you have to watch the football and eat fried frog legs. The enjoyed watching me try them for the first time but really they were a mix of chicken and calamari and not something I would rave about.... They were happy - more for them... It seemed we couldn't drive past without the car parking (all by itself, we were told) so we could have a quick cerveza and tapa before going back to the women!

One day we joined grandpa on a walk and I thought it was to buy some bread etc, but turns out he wanted to take his grandson on a comprehensive tour of the town, since he hadn't visited for 10 years. I followed with the camera and enjoyed watching them talk for hours about the way it was in the old days, during the civil war and the amazing stories he recalled - stories about rivers of blood running out the doorway and down the street of the "prison" during the war, the store owner who dobbed in his competitor as a republican so the man would be arrested and he would get more business and the place where the town used to collect their communal water, where grandpa was arrested for "publico scandalo" because he took his shirt off in public, the tiny house his mother was born etc etc..... A really interesting day...

Of course there is always the men sitting in the squares gossiping, watching and waiting for lunch to be cooked....

We took a drive to a canyon were we explored the river and paths and found a lovely watering hole for a swim..... The place was teaming with dragonflies of all colours who were happy to pose for the camera. The day became extremely hot though and grandpa, uncle and cousins all passed out in the back of the van and we drove home with windows down and fans fluttering...

And at the end of it all we were given a beautiful sunset.... One last meal and we drove back to Madrid, stopping only to replace a flat tire and to fall into bed at 1am!

Our next escape from Madrid coming soon - mountain walking and sleeping rough in the mountains!

This time last year...

2007-05-22T20:48:00.001+01:00

IMG_1763, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

This time last year I arrived in Finisterre after almost 1000km and 40 days walking along the Camino Frances..... What a wonderful feeling to plunge into the icy Atlantic and watch the sun melt into the sea amongst fellow peregrinos!!

A very happy memory!

One week later I followed my nose to Madrid and laid the foundations for the next adventure - a life in Madrid. Since August I have been trying to etch out a life here - sometimes successfully, more often not..... But poco y poco!! I am slowly getting there....

Its all a big adventure, a big challenge, a big test of emotional stamina and ultimately a part of my life that I know I will never regret!

One year ago, none of this was even a seed in my head, and now it is a small, but growing existence...... Just that thought keeps it hopeful and exciting...

Thelma and Louise Part 2 - San Sebastian

2007-05-14T08:47:00.000+01:00

Well, after the road trip of Portugal and the south, Mum was hoping to see some of the north of Spain. It was starting to look like the flights were too expensive, so we were researching other options, like Segovia and Seguenzia etc - both respectable, interesting, old towns close to Madrid, but really, deep down, it was the Basque country on the northern coast that held the most appeal.

So at the eleventh hour, we looked at the el-cheapo airline webistes and found a budget flight for the next day!!! woo hoo!! The flight there was 3 euros (+ taxes of course) and all up it was only 80 euros eachr return!! Pretty good.

Ruben was hired to help us book a room for the weekend - I mean, I could do it, but what would take me an hour, he can manage in 5 minutes....... After a few calls he decided that he liked the sound of a little old lady who called him "son" - so we were to stay with deaf, old Josephina for the weekend....

So we set off on Sat morning, checked in to our pension close to the beach and went straight to the old town to try the world famous pinxos of San Sebastian.

A litle history to start with:

San Sebastian is a coast town in the Basque region of Spain. The Basque´s dont think of themselves as Spanish, they have their own language, their own cultures and customs and they are fiercely patriotic to their region. ETA is the terrorist group that originate in the Basque region and the region has been fighting for autonomy from Spain for a long long long time....

The Basques have also been credited with "inventing" the pinxo style of tapas (slices of bread stick with a vast variety of toppings) and they are world famous for their innovative chefs etc....

So that brings mum and I to one of the many bars in the old town, eating pinxos and sipping a beer for breakfast (well, it was after 12!!) A big part of the pinxo (pronounced Pin-Cho) experience is the presentation... They look amazing - piles of food of a variety of colours loaded onto the bar ready for you to peruse at your leisure... you don´t order pinxos, you get a plate and take whichever ones you like.... you pay at the end by telling the waiter how many you had in a kind of honour system. The waiters have eyes like hawks - they seem to see every morsel on every plate in a very very crowded bar.... But there is little reason to cheat the system - its not too expensive and a few will be filling enough for the afternoon. These bars ahve an amazing atmosphere and the locals seem to enjoy this wonderful afternoon tradition.

Mum became a fan of the ham croquettes and I couldn´t stop choosing the crab salad one... hmmmmm, yummo! For the first day, we were just walking into every bar to see how much more exotic the selection could become. We had a number of bars now that had to be tried this weekend, and also a committment that this weekend was about eating and enjoying and we could deal with the exercising next week...

As we walked in the cobble stoned streets we heard a choir singing in one of the streets and we followed the echoing voices til we found about 100 people blocking one the tiny streets, except for one little area where pedestrians could squeeze through to continue with their day... I was certain that we had come across either some zealous religious folk or, perhaps even a politically motivated group, but either way, it was really beautiful - 100 voices singing with gusto and in harmony...... We stayed til they moved on to the next street and I asked if they were part of the church (they had a certain believers glow on their faces...) but in fact "no - we are proud Basque people who love our language and we love to sing and every third saturday we sing in the streets..." So perhaps a little political, but non-violent and really enjoyable. We saw them again later in the night, when their number had dropped to about 20 people, and people spilled out of bars with a drink in their hand (us included) to enjoy the free concert.

So, it warmed up a little and we took a walk along the beach, La Concha! The beach here is really beautiful - looking out ot the bay, on your right is the old town, and the old fortressed hill with the prominent statue of Jesus on top. To your right is the old summer palace and the funicular to the amusement park on top of the hill. Directly in front is a turtle shaped island like a dot in the middle of the bay. In summer pontoons are set up in the bay with slides and trampolines etc and you need to take a reasonable swim to get to them. Its still out of season, but a decent number of people were soaking up the early spring rays.

That evening we had a "proper" (ie not more tapas!!) meal in a restaurant - ok, not one with a world famous chef, but a really cute place with a nice chatty waiter and had a really nice meal. The walk home was lovely as the evening mists had rolled in giving the bay a really etherial look with the high tide and the lights along the promenade.

On day 2 we bought some fruit and took a walk up the hill to visit Jesus and get a view down over the bay and old town. A lovely day and finally out of the fleeces and jeans that we had come to despise over the last 3 weeks!!

When we were passing through the old town we heard some music and mums ears pricked..... "hey, thats Argentine Tango music!!" We followed the sound to the main squre to find about 80 people from the Friends of Tango group doing a display. They were fantastic and I decided that this would be a very cool dance to learn. When they finished we had a beer in the sun before setting off for the other side of the bay to see what there was to see.

We found an old Funikular that we took to the top where we then found a fun park for kids.... The first ride we saw were little boats going round a little path - designed for kids but we really wanted a go so as I was mum´s child, we used that technicality to justify it. We got some funny looks from the other adults, but I think they were a little jealous because they wanted a go too!!

It was on the walk home, as the evening promenade started that we realised that we were literally surrounded by strollers and babies - LITERALLY!! Mum thought that there was a baby-bonus here because it was a crazy amount of kids for one small town!

We saw everyone with an icecream, so of course, we wanted one too.... then we saw everyone with a white bag, eating something with a shell, so we followed them to find a seafood shop selling sea snails....... when i was young, we used to go to Bulli beach and get Baboushi shells, pop would cook them and we would eat them in their kitchen..... So, for old times sake, we bought a bag and ate them on the edge of harbour, surrounded by fishing boats.

On our last day (after a hurry on from our now-not-so-friendly host Josephina) we wandered the streets with our suitcases to find a suitable bar to haunt til our airport bus came. We found a good spot in the shade near the harbour and I watched these ladies mending the fishing nets in the hot hot sun. They worked together really well, telling stories and passing around a bottle of water to stay cool. I was thinking of the Stitch and Bitch group that I had with friends at home and decided to go over for a chat. My spanish is basic but they told me that they do this every month or so, or as needed, and that it takes all day - so there is no avoiding the worst of the heat. I donñt know if they ar the fishermans wives or family or if they are only employees, but regardless, its a tough job.

So that brings us to the end of our weekend escape. We caught the plane home, got back to the flat and crashed for the night. I have developed a pregnant looking belly from all those pinchos and pastries and icecream and beers, but it was worth it..... Ill just have to take the stairs a bit more this week ;-()

portugal and spain - the thelma and louise tour

2007-05-04T11:50:00.001+01:00

Well, well well, the month with mum came and went in a flash, and now i am trying to record what happened..... It turns out that we did an awful lot really...... BUT - I am flat out catching up with work, paperwork, etc etc and cant give it the attention that it deserves here now.....

SO, here is the summary....

Mum arrived and had the jet lag to prove that she had a 32 hour journey!!

Ruben and I cooked up a spanish tapas lunch, Pete visited and we propped mum up with our news until we let her crash and try to catch up on sleep

We picked up our very cute hire car on Wed 4 April and drove on the wrong side of the road, in a manual, out of Madrid, through the countryside and into Portugal.

As we had no plans, we were able to stop in Portalegre just across the border as we were tired and couldnt face the next few hours driving into Lisbon. Cute walled town not built for foreign drivers - we drove around and around and around and around being quite lost but managed to get a pretty good feel for the place without walking a step! Found a room, had an (interesting) meal and crashed.

Next day we went to Evora and I managed to follow my nose to the pension that I stayed in in 1998!!! The same lady was there and i explained that Id stayed there before. The town is really lovely - we had some roasted chestnuts in the square, watching the old men standing around and chatting all afternoon while their wives cooked!! The Roman ruins were lovely and this is where I started to see the street art that i noticed everywhere throughout Portugal.

Driving into Lisbon was really lovely - the Golden Gate style bridge is really impressive, the Jesus statue on the hill mirrors the twin in Rio de Janeiro and watches over the gorgeous city. Again getting a tad lost we accidentally looped past the airport twice before getting into town. A visit to the tourist office told us that the city was fully booked, so we decided to push on to Sintra. Visited the Tower of Balem and San Jeronimos monastry before taking the hilly roads up to the picturesque town, known for its fairytale castles. We found a room and tried to visit the castle. When i came here in 1998 the hill top was shrouded in cloud and the "amazing views" were hidden from us...... but this was a clear day and it was time to finally see it..... except we were stuck in a traffic jam, kept missing our street and when we finally got there we were told that sorry, we are closed now....... Stoopid castle!!! Met some nice people in a winebar later that night and had some looooovely chees made from goat, sheep and cow!! yummmmm

Lisbon - finally!! Lovely day, strange but comfortable room and a beautiful city to explore on foot. We took the scenic bus, went up the old winding streets of the Barrio Alto - old district, found some amazing funky designer shops, ate some divine pastries and at the very end, when mum was about to crash, we ran into some Aussie boys with money to burn who bought us dinner and beers!! Think they were missing their mum as mum was duly adopted as the group mum!! The budget gods were smiling on us as our room that night turned out to be free also - we couldnt get the guy to let us pay, so we left, feeling guilty, but...... if they dont want it, they dont want it!!

Big day of driving to Lagos...... and finally the cold weather cleared so that we could enjoy the beach!! We walked and shopped and drank beers by the edge of the sea!! LOVELY!! Mum now got the cold I had the week before so we decided to slow down the pace and stay another night here to relax and unwind. Day two was more of the same!!

Time to leave Portugal and drive across to Seville! Again, struck on a cool pension with a friendly owner who helped us park illegally and watched over our car in its poll position outside the front door. Our central position made it easy to walk and eat and watch flamenco at our leisure...... then, in the middle of the night it all went a bit pear shaped...... yelling, screaming, breaking bottles, for HOURS..... who´s that yelling in the middle of the echoing stone streets..... oh, dear, its our kindly host and a lady.....got pretty scary actually and also meant that we didnt sleep at all from about 2-5am!! Then when we tried to pay the 40 euro per night that he quoted me became 80 euro..... ummm, no, we cant pay that..... on and on it went until he gave in (perhaps recalling that he told us the wrong price, perhaps not, i dont know). Regardless, we decided it was all a bit too much and high-tailed it out of there..... But the highlights were the tapas, the funny barmen and the flamenco show!!

Now, because we listened to the advise of a drunk irishman, we drove the looooooooooooooong way to Rhonda instread of the 2 hour direct road!! But it was scenic....... although with no sleep we had a few stops were we crashed in the car park of a roadside diner for a bit of shut-eye...... We finally arrived in the mountains around 7 and could see how lovely the place is. The ancient bridge (in this picture) is really impressive and is the main feature.... the deep gorge is amazing and this was apparently the town that Hemmingway used "For Whom the Bell Tolls" - and was one of the most dramatic scenes in the book where the republicans sacked the town and threw the fascists off the walls into the gorge and left to die.... Explored more in the morning and enjoyed being out of a big city!

Next morning we ventured into the lap of luxury to visit Kim´s best friend Bron and her hubby Spencer!! Pulling our dusty car into the Mansions Club in Marbella was a relief, but after negotiating the tiniest roads, lanes and walled cities, this is the first time i didnt feel brave enough to park the car..... a crooked park by the Jaguar in the next spot meant that it was too tight a fit, and as the owner is an Arab diplomat and his minder in the (not so subtle) parked car behind us is the chief of police, I decided that this was not the time to have my first accident! The flat was amazing and Bron and Spence were totally welcoming. A perfect finish to our budget road tour! We went for dinner at the posh wharf of Porta Banus, had lunch at the uber posh "Nicky´s Beach" beach club (think 1950 euros for a bottle of champers) and very relaxing time talking and drinking red wine.

Sadly, this brings us to the end of the road part of the trip - a 6 hour drive up to Madrid finished us off.... we picked up Ruben on the way through and knowing that we would have no food in the fridge, he came fully equipped to cook us dinner!!! Tired but happy we crashed in the pad in Madrid.

I worked the next two weeks, but we managed to do some other things along the way..... This was meant to be brief, but, well, there is a lot to tell.

Will update more soon with the rest of our time together.....

PS: The new pics are on Flickr (www.flickr.com/photos/kellieu) - not all captioned yet, but from our trip!

...and out another window

2007-03-28T16:38:00.001+01:00

Mojo Project Fotos 016, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

we have an inordinate number of windows in our flat (plus alot of chairs....but thats another story...i mean there are 4 of us but we have 13 chairs!!!) and this is one in the hallway that I opened for the first time last week...... and this was my reward!

I love the clothes lines between the windows and this lady kindly colour coordinated for washing for my photo!

Meet my first born...... tortilla!!

2007-03-28T16:33:00.001+01:00

Mojo Project Fotos 004, originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Well, this is an achievement in my kitchen.... an emergency text to Ruben for the quantities, some valuable help from Charlotte and then ....voila!..... a tasty warm tortilla for our picnic in Retiro!!

You can see Kath´s salad in the background and the Sangria that we sipped in our lakeside patch....

R.I.P - the second tortilla was not photographed and will not be discussed...... fingers crossed the third is more like its big sister!!

people as brainy and footsy as you...

2007-02-01T12:26:00.000+01:00

Many years ago I bought the Dr Suess book, "Oh the Places you´ll go" for my friend Tash. Cristina had originally bought one for me, and Ive since bought one for Al and B (I think you both got one) and a special one for JS. Tash sent me an email today after reading it to her son and thought I might like this excerpt. Ill post it here so you can all enjoy it!!

Love kel

Out there things can happen
and frequently do
to people as brainy
and footsy as you

And when things start to happen,
dont worry. Dont Stew.
Just go right along.
You'll start happening too.

........
... Today is your day! your mountain is waiting, So.... get on your way!

new adventures in spanish

2006-11-05T17:17:00.000+01:00

i started my time in spain with best intentions of speaking Spanish. To start with though, when someone spoke to me I would do my full routine of "I´m sorry, I don´t speak Spanish. Do you speak any English". This became annoying after a while because they were often just asking very mundane questions like "would you like anything else" etc. They would get frustrated at my "speech"

I then learnt bits and pieces to cover these basic interactions so moved on to saying "No entiendo" only when I didnt understand...... but this also had its drawbacks as some people were asking if they could open the window, or making idle comments in the bus line etc.

So, tired of looking foolsh I decided on a new strategy and started saying yes to everything, if in doubt. This became a little expensive as I kept getting upsized and extra items turned up on the bill etc. It also led to that awkward moment when they wait for me to continue after Ive said yes, and I then have to backtrack to admit that I dont know what they are saying afterall an we return to my second phase.

So, rather than just admit that Im foreign and dont speaka de language, Ive now taken to saying no to everything. Just to confirm that this not a smart move, I tried it at the local budget grocer. The checkout chica asked me a few questions and I shook my head with confidence and said "no gracias" in my best accent. She said something like, "I guess its not necessary...." and I stood there with my shopping, and no bags and realised that Id told her that "no thanks, I dont need any bags". The walk home was mercifully short as i tottered under the awkward pile of washing powder, toothpaste, bread, tuna and tomatos etc....... as i reminded mysef that i HAVE to practice my spanish so I can stop playing these games....

postscript........ I had a man outside a pub on halloween call after me as I walked past to go down the street to my flat..... and tired of men having their little piece to say to the chicas, I flipped my hair and strutted off ignoring his continued calls..... Then a few minutes later i looked back and realised that I had a 5 metre trail of fake spider web cottony stuff stuck to my heel (not as bad as toilet paper but not far off)... suspect he was trying to alert me to the fact thats id picked up some of their decoration on my way past....... humbled and reminded that i dont know everything.

Article about Reintegrating after the Camino

2006-10-23T21:25:00.000+01:00

Click on the title fo rthe link - an interesting (but loooong) article that may be interesting to any past, present or future peregrinos!!

Besos y abrazos

Statistics for the Camino - May 2006

2006-10-23T21:14:00.000+01:00

The Pilgrimage to Santiago in May 2006
Pilgrim’s Office

During the month of May 2006, 9.986 pilgrims were received at the Pilgrim’s Office. The number of pilgrims in the year 2005 during the same period was 9.306.

Of those pilgrims, 3.866 were women (38,71%) and 6.120 men (61,29%). 8.158 pilgrims arrived on foot (81,69 %), 1.769 by bicycle (17,71%), 56 on horseback (0.56%) and three pilgrims on wheel-chair.

Pilgrims’ Age.
1.597 pilgrims were younger than 30 years old (15,99%); 5.921 were between 30 and 60 years old (59,29%); 2.468 were aged above 60 years old (24,71%).

Pilgrims’ Motivation.

Religious ..................4.308..........43,14%
Religious and Cultural ...4.946..........49,52%
Cultural...................732............7,33%

Pilgrims’ Nationality.
Spanish: 3.462 (34,66 %). Most of the pilgrims come from: Madrid, 603 (17,41%); Galicia with 533 (15,39%); Cataluña, 521 (15,04%); Andalucía with 318 (9,18%); Valencia 267 (7,71%); País Vasco, 262 (7,56%) and Castilla León, 237 (6,84%)

Foreigners: 6,524 (65,33%). Most of the pilgrims come from the following countries: Germany with 1.408 (21,58%); France with 1.093 (16,75%); Italy with 727 (11,14%); Austria with 319 (4,88%); The Nederland’s with 295 (4,52%); Canada with 290 (4,44%); Portugal with 287 (4,39%); United Kindom with 284 (4,35%) and the United States with 228 (3,49%)

Pilgrims’ Profession.
Regarding the professional fields, the majority of pilgrims are retired with 2.572 pilgrims (39,42%); employees with 1.835 (28,12%), freelancers with 1.435 pilgrims (21,99%); technicians with 1.222 (18,73%); students with 641 (9,82%), civil servants with 562 (8,61%); teachers with 397 (6,08%) etc.

Starting Points.
Most of the pilgrims received during the month of May started their Way to Santiago in: Saint Jean Pied de Port, 1.543 (15,45 %); Sarria, 1.222 (12,23%); Roncesvalles 845 (8,46%); León 674 (6,74%); Cebreiro 517 (5,17%), Le Puy 466 (4,66%), Pamplona 458 (4,58%); Ponferrada 435 (4,35%); Astorga 430 (4,30%), Burgos 352 (3,52%), etc.

The Chosen Routes.
Most of the pilgrims chose the French Way with 8.332 (83,43%); followed by the Portuguese Route with 619 pilgrims (6,19%), the Silver Way has been chosen by 530 pilgrims (5,30%), the Northern Way with 342 (3,42%), and the Primitive Way with 82 (0,82%) pilgrims.

travel mantra

2006-08-25T14:37:00.000+01:00

it is what it is...
it will be what it will be...
acceptance is the answer...
flexibility the key...

go with the flow

mountain hiking - a short photo tour

2006-08-11T13:20:00.000+01:00

After taking me on an easy walk to warm up, Gunther took me on a 2 day hike up Möseler above Lake Neves. I started confident and assured that today was 2 hours uphill to the hut we would be staying in for the night.

Three hours later (!) we reached the point where we had to cross the raging whitewater of melted glacier. Gripping the flimsy wire I crossed the frigid water. This photo is from a slow motion re-inactment - I didnt look that calm the first time across!

We then had some time for a spot of skiing on the glacier. The melting snow is forming multiple rivers down the mountain side so we crossed another few on our way.

When we made it to the hut after 4 1/2 hours (! hmmm) we were treated to this lovely view and a dramatic sunset over the peaks as we sipped on some res wine! All the breathlessness of the climb to 2450m is now worth it.

Day 2 and we backtracked for an hour before starting on the traverse around the mountain face. Here is a lovely little glacier that we had to cross. Only short but got my pulse racing a little as we had to cross another river on the other side and my boots felt a little laking in the neccesary grip! Of course it wasnowhere near as dangerous as I felt it was - i just dont come across these conditions every day.

Then I saw the secret on the way down. These little kids had hired their grandpa to drag them up the hill! How can I get one of those. Pure genius!

Then after a futher 4 hours we came down to this lovely view. Two clear days in the mountains capped off with glass of their local brew - Perfection!

more pics of Italy on the flickr page here

lost and found

2006-08-07T11:57:00.000+01:00

Ill start with the bad news..... beacuse its quite bad.

After I finished the camino I collected all of my most valuable momentos together to send home for safe keeping.

Into a box I put my Compostella (the certificate of completion of the camino), my credential (the pilgrim passport stamped at each stop), my t-shirt and sourvenirs from Santiago, the beautiful pendant (that I bought with money I was given from a friend to "buy something special"), and most important of all, the CD's with the photos that I had taken along the way (ie: the ONLY high resolution copy of these pics)

And now over 2 months later the box is missing in action! Not in Spain, not in Australia and not able to be traced!

Trying hard not to think about how irreplacable these items are!!

But on a brighter note I had a previously lost item come back to me most unexpectedly, so that has renewed my faith that someitems just go on a detour on their way home.

Before I left Sydney, some friends gave me small items to bring with me. One of these gifts was a cotton braided bracelet from Penni and Emmanuel which I wore immediately. It slowly started to stretch and soon I could pull it off over my wrist. before I had a chance to tighten it I noticed that it had slipped off, sometime around the 3rd week of the walk. I felt really sad about that because it when all you have is a few light possessions on your back, small sentimental items take on greater significance.

So I had assumed that it had dropped somewhere along the path in the mountains. Then, after 2 months and multiple packings and unpackings of my backpack, I found it had come out of my bag and was tucked half under the bed in the house I visited in Switzerland....... somehow....

Perhaps this little momento had hidden itself somewhere in my bag to jump out just when I needed a reminder that sometimes the lost can be found again.

But still, if you have any psychic ability that you would like to use, see if you can see where my precious little box is hiding......pleeeease.

Homework for returning to Spain.....

2006-08-06T23:21:00.000+01:00

How to sleep a Siesta:

To fully enjoy a siesta it is very important to have a good lunch with friends or/and relatives.
1. The real siesta takes place in bed and in pyjamas, but a comfortable sofa is also fine if no bed is not available.

2. Timing is very important. A siesta should last between 15-30 minutes, no more.

3. Don't let anything disturb you. The siesta is a very serious business. Some people can't enjoy a siesta unless the TV or radio is on. If these kind of things help you to fall asleep, use them.

4. The best way to wake up from a siesta is to hear a delicate human voice. If you don't have anybody near, remember to use an alarm clock.

Tips:· Right after the siesta, a glass of water and a piece of chocolate will make your life easier. ·

Disconnect all telephones!

Courtesy of http://www.donquijote.org/culture/spain/siesta/

Love it!!
Kellie

slow travel

2006-07-31T10:36:00.000+01:00

I read about the notion of slow travel, and I realised that I had already been trying to implement it on this trip. Turns out it is very satisfying but quite difficult in practice.

I have been trained and socialized to aspire to "good organisational skills", "ability to develop strategic plans and processes", "co-ordination of multiple tasks simultaneously".

Slow travel, for me, has meant the resistance to all longer term plans - and by long term I mean more than 1 or 2 weeks! I cannot predict any movements 100% if they are beyond that time frame as I need to be free to follow the flow of the river that is carrying me along.

Good things that have happened from not having plans:
1: Met Phil at the end of the camino because, unlike everyone I met, Id made no plans on how or when to leave santiago. His email on the very last day set my direction to Salamanca
2: Because I met Phil, I also met Esther and Paddy
3: Because I met Esther I have a new and very cool friend who has helped me survive my post-camino shock at returning to a big city and has offered me a home when I return.
4: With no plans I could go to Paris to meet with Jose when I wanted to
5: By reisiting any plans out of Paris I was able to fly to Italy to meet Gunther at a time perfect for him.
6: With no plans to leave Italy, Gunther and I were able to take a last minute drive to Switzerland to visit Andrea
7: By procrastinating with my research, I was able to stay to joing Gunther and his friends on the Lake of Garda this weekend for their summer camping holiday.

Now, I have a flight booked and one nights accommodation in Cinque Terre and already the accomm booking is restricting me a little..... I panicked that its so busy at this time of year so made the booking, but should have had faith that it would have worked out ok without it.

But, Oh, how this strategy challenges me. I am constrantly fighting the urge to book and plan.... and panic.....

But the rewards are great! If you are an overplanner, try it some time!

Serendipity is much more memorable than Certainty anyday!

Pueblo Ingles

2006-06-14T11:40:00.000+01:00

I have been off line for the last week because I have been busy on the language immersion course I signed up for in Valldelavilla!

I came to this week with very few expectations - only the knowledge that I have the chance to spend a week in the countryside, eating three-course meals for lunch and dinner and talk all day with little or no expenses - a dream situation for a poor backpacker!

What I experienced is much more enjoyable than I imagined. We had 20 english speakers and 20 spanish speakers there last week. For the first few hours after arrival we settled in our separate groups and looked suspiciously at each other. Not a great start..... The english speakers didn't know each other but we at least all spoke the same language.

After a few ice-breakers, the sessions of talking started and we found ourselves talking one-to-one with a different spanish person for an hour all morning and afternoon. After apologising for their bad english, the conversations usually started to flow and we all got to know each other very quickly.

Tongues were loosened each evening in the bar and before long everyone felt like old friends. At every meal we sat at tables of four - with 2 english speakers and 2 spanish speakers at each table. This is where some of the funniest conversations happened - often with each of us talking about something completely different and trying to figure out what the topic was when we got off track.

Like any intense courses, there are intensely funny situations and there were many many laughs all week. I was definitely in my element with these great people and I know that more than a few people thought I was completely mad. There was at least one lady who made it clear that she disliked me and a few others who were having fun, but I figured that it was her problem if our good mood grated on her.

The week was long and tiring but VERY enjoyable. The location was peaceful and stunning but it was the people who made it so great. I barely slept and still managed to get up every day and keep on talking. My plan was to catch up on sleep when I returned to Madrid but I have had a few nights out with people from the course that have kept me out once again.

Today was my enforced rest. I am completely out of money {except for 5 euros in my pocket} until my bank transfer comes through tonight so it was a great excuse to stay in bed all day and catch up on some sleep.

Ok, I am off to finish my laundry, find something cheap to eat and find somewhere to watch the Spain game tonight.

Hope you are all well = would love to hear some news from home if you have time!

kel

Finisterre and Muxia Photos

2006-06-06T15:40:00.000+01:00

IMG_1859
Originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Come on in - there are a few more pics to look at which have us at the "end of the world" enjoying sunsets and general celebrations.

0km - the end

2006-06-01T22:17:00.000+01:00

0km - the end
Originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Some more photos have been added today - feel free to have a look.

I have some more from the sunset at the cape and the ensuing celebrations to come.

enjoy

Life is Wonderful

2006-06-01T22:09:00.000+01:00

LIFE IS WONDERFUL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R08q2wzGpzk
by Jason Mraz

It takes a crane to build a crane
It takes two floors to make a story
It takes an egg to make a hen
It takes a hen to make an egg
There is no end to what I'm saying

It takes a thought to make a word
And it takes a word to make an action
It takes some work to make it work
It takes some good to make it hurt
It takes some bad for satisfaction

La la la la la la la life is wonderful
Ah la la la la la la life is full circle
Ah la la la la la la life is wonderful

It takes a night to make it dawn
And it takes a day to you yawn brother
It takes some old to make you young
It takes some cold to know the sun
It takes the one to have the other

It takes no time to fall in love
But it takes you years to know what love is
It takes some fears to make you trust
It takes those tears to make it rust
It takes some dust to make it polished

Ha la la la la la la life is wonderful
Ah la la la la la la life is full circle

It takes some silence to make sound
It takes a loss before you found it
It takes a road to go nowhere
It takes a toll to know you care
It takes a hole to make a mountain

Ah la la la la la la life is wonderful
Ah la la la la la la life is full circle

tme for the party to stop!

2006-06-01T21:55:00.000+01:00

Hola from sunny and hot Madrid.

Where did I leave you last? In Finisterre I think. Well, after the last post a group of us walked to the cape and watched the sun set on the Atlantic and we drank wine and took photos to celebrate that we WALKED there to see this ;) We were back in the local restaurant that we discovered the night before and finished dinner around midnight (spanish style!). We continued on to a bar that was recommended and we were still dancing around at 5am when a few of us decided to have one last dip in the ocean!

A bus the next day to Muxia was strange. I had not moved this quickly in over 6 weeks and it f elt very strange. Muxia is a cute town that is trying desperately to jump on the camino wagon and were very accommodating to the handful of pilgrims who make the extra km´s to visit. W slept in the sports hall that night and, surprisingly, it ws the best sleep I had had in a while.

Back in Santiago, we had one more night before parting ways with our Finisterre crew and happened upon the party for thye Ascencion (40 days after easter) and the locals partied LOUDLY until 5am - bands, dancing, marching bands etc, all night. Had every intention of an early night and whil I was in bed early I didnt get any sleep.

A few weeks earlier I had an emal from Phil - ann irish guy who had emailed me some tips for my camino months ago. We agreed that we would try to meet wh ile he is in Spain. So that gave me somewhere to go, because until now, I had no post camino plans. Caught a bus to Salamanca and met up with Phil, his friend Shane and their other new friend Christi from Canada. Despite being exhausted, good manners meant that I must join them on a locals tapas crawl, taking in the best of the best. The food and company was A1 and we had a great night. Tapa followed tapa, nightclub followed bar and then bed followed dawn!!! How did THAT happen?? Slept til midday then meandered around town for the afternoon before meeting up for dinner with the crew again. This time I showed restraint and managed to get to bed by 2.30 (!!!)

Caught a train with Phil to Madrid (eventually - we managed to miss our origional train by a minute!!) and went straight out to see his best friend Paddy play at a bar. I was then introduced to Phil´s tight group of camino friends - Paddy and Esther - who have welcomed me with open arms. I have now spent some part of each day with either Phil or Esther and I have been shown the local sights and better bars/restaurants.

And, as you would imagine, with all of this frivolity, I am now well and truly sick and run down. I have spent the last few days in bed and am coughing and spluttering when I do get up. So, I will go back to bed soon to feel sorry for myself but also happy that its all been for a good cause ;)

end of the world as we know it

2006-05-22T15:56:00.000+01:00

what an adventure the last few days have been.

the minute I logged off from my last post I decided to catch the bus to the next town. I t seemed rediculous to walk in the rain when I have the start of a cold, a stomach bug and little sleep....... Then while I was waiting I felt that this was an opportunity to channel my Japanese amigo, so packed my bag, put on my waterproof gear and headed out with a final "buen camino" to those waiting for teh bus.

I was wet within a few minutes but my body stayed warm and I let my wind wander and the km´s went by. My body felt ok - if weary - and after a few hours, I stopped for breakfast /lunch and saw the only other person I would talk to that day. After 30 mins I walked on and felt amazingly peaceful. I didnt "marcg" once and kept a calm and even pace - not very fast but effective enough. I took one more stop in another 2 hours for a hot chocolate and kitkat then kicked on. I started the countdown with 10km to go and found it passed quite quickly. Whenever I felt anxious the time would drag and it reminded me of the earlier lesson of mind over matter - when happy , the km´s flew by!

I finally dragged my legs into town and had a welcome shower. Finally found my comrades in the bar (of course) and I received a cheer and pat on the back for my efforts. Some had assumed that I had caught the bus or bailed out and the one I have spent the most time with said "no, Kel´s tough - she´ll stick with it"

We had a great night - the hospitalero cooked us soup that we all shared then sat around singing songs with some German´´s, French and English. Wonderful atmosphere and felt elated from surviving the day that could have been so difficult had I let it.

The next day we woke to pouring rain and whipping, gusty wind. I didnt feel ready to tackle this day alone and stuck with teh others but my mind wass et in the right place and it didnt get to me. About 20 minutes into the walk the wind was so fierce that the waterprrof cover on Mark´s bag blew off and flew into the brambles. I leapt in after it and landed in a hole full of water . Our shoes had pools of water and we were tilted into the wind to move ahead. Soon we were all in histerical laughter at how ridiculous this was! What are we doing this for??? After a long lunch where we rung out out socks and soaked up as much water from our shoes as we could we started out and the sun eventually broke through and we were able to dry a little.

In the afternoon I was aware that I felt completely peaceful. Despite what was external to me, I felt a complete peace inside. It didnt come from the sun, or the flowers or the birds - but was just there. I don´t ever recall this feeling before and it was so beautiful to meet it! what a great gift from this long long road!

The hospitaleros in the next town were really gorgeous - they had met 2 weeks prior on thier camino and while from different continents, were spending their final days together before going home to their "other" lives. THey gave me a hug goodbye after a lovely chat and wished me well. They had found some peace too - you could see it in their eyes.

Today I arrived at Finisterre - the end of the world and after 40 days of walking. When we made it to the beach a few of us stripped down to shorts and t-shirts and leapt in to the cold Atlantic. Im not a big fan of cold water but it was invigorating and cleansing and perfect. Walking alone the beach with our boots hanging from our packs and our bare feet in the sand was such a fitting end to this walk.

We shared a seafood lunch and tonight will walk to the Cape to watch the sunset and leave behind the shells and items that we carried with us from home. It is also traditional to burn something that you have carried. I have thrown out the things that I didnt want anymore but bought some insense to burn when I reflect on all that has been and all that will come.

So this is the end and the begining - what a strange and exciting place to be.

the big test on the road to finisterre

2006-05-20T07:33:00.000+01:00

not in a very happy place today. feeling a little sick so slept badly and now it is pouring rain - the worst since that horrible day into Los Arcos.

i guess i can now test out if ive learnt any serenity!!

That was 18km and this is 35km!! But now that I have finished the main camino im not too proud to jump in a taxi....... but ill see how i go

stay tuned

Peregrino Competo

2006-05-17T15:11:00.000+01:00

Hola from and very grateful and satisfied little peregrina!

After the last email I met up with a few new people and have had a wonderful few days on the approach to Santiago.

I walked the final 3 days with Jose and had lot´s of laughs and I had to try to explain english words thaht I was using to someone who used english as a fourth language!! Think we covered off "weirdo", "creepy" and "dag" before going for more high brow terms!

We left on the last day at 5.30am as Jose really wanted to walk in the night once and the sun doesnt rise til 7am so we got a few hours of dark in. I wanted to have a siesta under a tree one day too so squeezed that in on the second last day. Otherwise pretty much did everything else I hoped to. The last day took us through a few eucalyptus forests which smelt amazing and felt very comforting. The few aussies around all had to become flora experts overnight though to explain the intricate details.....

We arrived a little late for the midday pilgrim mass so sat at the back of the impressive square before the cathedral, kicked off our dirty boots and lay on our packs looking up at the cathedral of St James. This was Jose´s fantascised end to the walk and was actually really perfect. We lay there in silence for about 2 hours, mulling over all that we had done and achieved. After the adrenaline of arrival wore off we could have a few private tears. Mine were mainly because i wasnt really ready for this little wolrd to come to an end. By getting my final pilgrim stanp and picking up my compostela (certificate) I would be letting it all be over, so I procrastinated for a while to soak up my final moments as a dirty pilgrim. A few well dressed coach tour people had us in their photos I think as we looked very tired, dirty and smelly lying on the ground - but also looked very happy.

Then the friends started coming in - one by one people that I had met or talked to came out from mass, retunred from Finisterre (the fast walkers!) or arrived into Santiago for the first time. What a wonderful reunion with people with such interlinked, but unique experiences.

Splurged on a nice room last night and today had lunch with 14 people that are now like old mates. The FA Cup is on tonight (Barcelona v Arsenal) and its a fiesta day so its a great atmosphere for celebration.

Today it has started raining so that means that in my 5 weeks walking we only had 1 day and 2 half days of rain! Almost unheard of for this time of year so feel very lucky.

Off to meet up with todays arrivals and a celebration cerveza! Love to you all and thank you so much for your encouragement alone the way. The time has really flown by and I will miss this journey very much but I know that it will all stay with me for a long time and I hope you have enjoyed the view from home.

Lots of love from peregrina kellie

65km to go!!

2006-05-13T18:41:00.000+01:00

well, its down to the final few days and can hardly believe that I am within 3-4 days walk from Santiago. Some people are speeding up to finish it off and a few of us are slwoing down and starting to unwind a bit.

Been VERY lucky and still have not had any more rain during the day. In Galicia (region) that is known for its rain and we have had beautiful ,c lear sunny days that are quite hot. Sat in the sun with three lovely people from Holland and had lunch and walked with them the final 8km to Palais del Rei. Nice to find people who also enjoy the slower pace and basking in a bit of sunshine rather than racing to the albergue each afternoon!

So at this stage I am looking at arriving in Santiago on Tues afternoon or Wed morning (depending on how I time it) and may catch a few friends before they head home. Will have a night or two in town then walk out to Finnisterre - so named because before Chris Columbus it was considered the end of the world. Will be nice to reach the coast.

The mountains that we have passed through were really spectacular and I realised that I really like being up high - everything about it is different and it uses a whole different group of muscles. Climbing O Cebreiro involved 8km of uphill climbing that took about 3 hours. Strenuous but very beautiful - wound through little valleys and forect paths til coming out the top to an amzing view behind of the smaller mountains that we had traversed without realising. Following the ridge line to the top. Thinking that was the worst for the day I was pretty unahhpy to find a surprise hill in the afternoon that came out of nowhere and nearly killed everyone. I had a little tantrum over that one and needed a little beer to console me. Thankfully everyone else felt the same so we ended up with quite a little party. Appropriately the town name was Alto de Poio and is now known amongst our little grouap as "Top of the Poo"!

The people I know on the walk are all quite scattered but I think we should all meet up at some stage in Santiago this week and that is such a lovely part of this trip. Every new town that you walk into, you are guaranteed to run into a dozen or so familiar faces at the first bar and there is a knowing nod passed amongst peregrinos - identifiable by the sandled feet and slight limp as we shuffle to the nearest restaurant. There is something comforting about this community and something that we will all miss when we are back to being unknown and faceless in the big city.

Hve some funny stories to share and some more`pics so stay tuned - this blog will continue when the walk is down so if you are bored at work I can do what I can to keep you amused for a few minutes at least.

Ciao for now

kel

New Photos

2006-05-09T18:08:00.000+01:00

IMG_1032
Originally uploaded by Sabihabeautiful.

Here are some new pics for your viewing pleasure. Click on this photo to go to my Flickr page. None are captioned or rotated yet so please excuse me...... will get o that in the next few weeks

Cheers

Kel

210km to go

2006-05-08T13:44:00.000+01:00

hi from the road once again. I havent been able to call home for a few days so am checking my emails in a bar on the road to Villafranca de Bierzo and have a few minutes for a quick update.

Feeling great at the moment. still getting blisters but thanksfully they don´t hurt anymore and no longer have to pierce them everynight. Tomorrow i will have been walking for 4 weeks - can you believe it!!!! Strange, sometimes thay seems much longer but then again the first week seems 20 years ago.

Met and walked with many people and many we keep running into at each stop. Was in a cafe this morning and it was like a reunion of old friends as different people wandered in for breakfast. Its like a very supportive wandering community who all look out for each other. Not sure if Ive mentioned Ernest from Amsterdam before - but he started from him front door 3 1/2 months ago and is a real character. Well he was feeling bad the other day and checked into a hotel and when someone he had met didnt see him fro breakfast he alerted the staff and they found him in a diabetic coma and had him taken to hospital!! He is ok and I saw him walking again the other day - a real fighter.

Passed over the highest point in the walk yesterday and LOVED being back in the mountains after the flat lands for the past week. We walked through the clouds and it was very eerie and beautiful. Came down about 1000 meters in the afternoon and covered 34 km. Had loads of energy after that and felt great.

Tomorrow we pss over another hill called O´Cebreiro and looking forward to that challenge. The next day we enter Galicia, a region with very strong Celtic origins and lots of rain. Think I have dealt better with my rain issues and cant wait for the new scenery.

Hope all are well and more soon
kel

what i am loving

2006-05-06T16:49:00.000+01:00

LOVE:
the sky is HUGE and the clouds have been fluffy and white all week

the vapour trails left by the planed flying overhead. they leave big diagonal streaks across the sky

the tiny blue butterflies who sit on the ground, camouflaged til you walk near, then lift up, revealing their blue/purple wings. have to be careful to not tread on them.

the passing parade of caterpillars, bugs, millipedes, centipedes, snails and ants. easy to stop and watch them a few times a day

the sound of the wind blowing through the groves of trees by the path..... gives an eerie ghost sound

the cockoo birds that sing out from the woods. i like to answer back.

saying hi to the cows and sheep and dogs and horses in the fields that we walk by. they often come over to the fence to have a chat.

the wild flowers everywhere

the windows and doors on the mud brick houses in the little villages. taken loads of photos of them.

the cool breezes as we climb into the mountains! lovely on the face and in the hair.

the ideas that pop into my head while i am walking along that i have to stop to write down! need to remember to make time for walking and thinking when i have to go back to the¨"other" world

all for now - off to dinner. hope you are all well

love kel

walking walking walking

2006-05-04T19:32:00.000+01:00

wow - ive missed updating this but internet has been a little hard to get hold of for long enough and after I have checked my messages and done boring stuff like banking etc I am out of time! But today I am on a hotels computer and its a little cheaper.

Here is a quick update:

* poo issue was short lived thankfully. some people are being laid up for 3-4 days but this passed and am now feeling much better

* spent a day in leon and really enjoyed the town. met up with two others and painted the town red - found the most gorgeous bar run by an lady who loved rock music so we drank vino tinto and danced around her bar all night. booked a pension on the main square as a treat so didnt have to wake up at dawn to the rustling of eager pilgrims for once - didnt get up until 9am (ooo ahhh) heaven!

* am now less than 300km from Santiago which means that we should be at the end in two weeks! from there i want to walk out to Finisterre which will take one more week.

* our initial little walking group have split a little but run into each other every few days. hope we all get to spend time together in the next few weeks and catch up in Santiago! Marco is about a day ahead, heather has stormed in front and may see her again before she heads back to dublin and robin and becky should be in the same places as me but keep missing them.

* have met some other people who are alot of fun and getting some great ideas and nuggets of wisdom from them.

* love that every conversation that you have here cuts right to the core and we are having REAL talks rather than filling in air time. MOstly find peoples most personal info before dinner, which can be a little disconcerting but also refreshing.

* body feels ok - just a few aches and pains when the body winds down from the days walk!! blisters are there but dont really hurt. fellingmuch fitter and a 20km walk seems like a warm up now. Walked my first 36km day this week and it felt great.

* a little tired today and need some regrouping time. I am deliberately walking a lone for a few days. It really is the best time and you have all day to daydream, think, plan etc. its fun to walk with someone else and often enlightening and entertaining but that needs to be balanced and thats what I am doing now.

* after a week and a half in the meseta we are finally back in the mountains and it is lovely. tomorrow we go over the highest point in the camino - 1350 feet. hopefully the rain prediction will be incorrect.

On other news I have been accepted to the english camp thing Imay have mentioned before and that is from June 9-16. There is a company that runs intensive language training camps for spaniards and they recruit englich speakers to help with their training. Its all voluntary but I get a weeks accommodation paid for, have a laugh, meet some locals and enjoy a week in the countryside. So that gives me my next step which is nice.

So at this stage I am looking to finish the walk sometime around May 24, spend a few days in Santiago to see the town and catch up with walking friends as they come in, then walk on to Finisterre for another 4 days. I have a few people that I can meet up with in Madrid or I could walk a little of the camino to Portugal (not because I am punishing myself but it is a very cheap way to get around!).

For the summer I am toying with getting a jon in Greece or Ireland, then return to Spain when it is a little cooler.

all for now
kel

poo

2006-04-29T17:29:00.000+01:00

have bed tummy today so will skip to the loo my darlin´

passed halfway point and will soon leave the meseta for some more mountains.
knee better, hip ok, blisters up again today but not painful.

more later - loo then bed!

Carrion de las Condes

2006-04-28T18:51:00.000+01:00

Hola from Carrion

While I guessed that this was my halfway point it is actually a little way down the road and there is a sign to say you are half way - so thats exciting!

Today was a little dull in that it was a straight path alongside the road but it was also very easy (didnt have to look for arrows all day to find the way) and gave me time to enjoy the little things around me.

Became a little obsessed with snails today and took a dozen or so photos of the little fellas. Think I can actually relate to their pace a little better now. Sadly also saw a few crushed by passing pelegrino feet.....

The ipod has decided that it doesnt want to charge anymore and while that is a pain, it also means that I can walk and listen to the sounds of nature - which are many and varied. Simple pleasures on the camino!

However, I have found that to fill some time i sing to myself and the hit list at the monent is;
*Lucksmiths - Chapter in your life - thanks to Kristie i listened to this alot and now can sing it to myself without the ipod
* Simon and Garfunkles Cecilia - this is the song de jour for getting up hills and other hard bits. The beat gets me going when i otherwise want to stop
* Every $%&/$ city by Paul Kelly - dont know all the words but i can mix it up a bit.
* Only 19, Redgum - listened to this on anzac day and now its on repeat in my head. little depressing, but easy words to sing along to
* Freedom Calling - by Colin Hay on Seachange soundtrack has some lovelu words that repeat in my head:
"when i let go of the master plan
i could then hear freedom calling!"

like that one

going back to the albergue now for my "delicious" tuna and tomato roll then to bed. tomorrow will be another big day and need to rest the bung left knee and dicky right hip! feeling good though and enjoying the adventure!

love to all and a million thanks for the comments - love them!

Pilgrims Progress

2006-04-26T20:21:00.000+01:00

Hola all

Wow - this walk is going much quicker than I expected! I am almost halfway already and it feels like it has only just begun.

The stats to date:
27.0 St Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles
20.5 Roncesvalles - Zubiri
21.5 Zubiri - Pamplona
4.7 Pamplona - Cizor Minor
18.8 Cizor Minor - Puenta la Reina
22.0 Puenta la Reina - Estella
21.8 Estelle - Los Arcos
18.6 Los Arcos - Viana
9.4 Viana - Logroño
29.0 Logroño - Najera
21.0 Najera - Santo Domingo
22.9 Santo Domingo - Belorado
27.7 Belorado - Ages
23.3 Ages - Burgos
18.8 Burgos - Hornillos de Camino
20.3 Hornillos de Camino - Castrojeriz

TOTAL WALKED - 328.5km
KMs to Santiago - 456km

Now, if you use a calculator and find that these figures do not add up, dont be surprised. It seems that every source possible varies on the distances between these towns and the total distance from SJPP to SdC. You would think after thousands of years they would agree on that at least, but still...... the most important thing is getting to the end of each day! The rest is only for a bit of perspective.

Body check - the earler blisters have hardened into callouses (more or less) so they are no longer a problem. The sideof my feet are toughening but still have new blisters to treat each day on the sides and heels. Nothing too dramatic though and quite enjoy the process of draining them (sad but true)

My left knee has been sore the lst two days but hasnt really slowed me. Feels swollen but is fine as long as I dont go down hills or stairs too quickly. Hasnt got me down at all so that is good.

Mind check - feeling fantastic. LOVE the meseta, which I am told translates to "little table" and it is basically a high area that is very flat and occassionally undulating. Actually the hills reminded me alot of the Burren in west Ireland. It is very peaceful and very beautiful and I hope this landscape lasts a few more days. Lot{s of little birds flying around, hundreds of insects and crawlies criss crossing the path we are on, so lots to look at!

Am walking alone and intermittently catch up Marco, so have periodic company. Being alone again is great.

Not sure where I am off to tomorrow and will stick to me plan so far and that is to stop when tired or when a place seems worth visiting. It is a lot less stressful for me to walk this way. No maps = a happy kellie!

Must be off - the pilgrims are tucking into bed (at 9.30!!) and I get dirty looks if I go in after 10 ;)

Buenos noches amigos

the Km´s fly by

2006-04-23T20:12:00.000+01:00

Its amazing that time is going so fast. We have now walked within a day of the next big town and will arrive in Burgos tomorrow afternoon. On Tues we will have walked for 2 weeks and it is getting easier all the time. My body is getting stronger so the km´s pass a little easier. Tomorrow will be a comfortable 20km then will most likely take a rest day or half day to see the city.

I am still travelling with our little band of walkers but I think I need a few days away from the company. It gets to a point with all groups that a "group mentality" kicks in and suddenly we need consensus for every little decision. I have to remind myself that I chose to travel alone so that I wouldnt have to sit outside in a gutter waiting for everyone to agree rather than booking into an albergue when I arrive. I appreciate that everyone has different needs and I would like to be more patient but after 2 weeks I am ready to make my own decisions and not feel that I am letting others down by doing my own thing. We are all on a similart time frame so I know we will meet again - Id rather still enjoy everyones company rather than get tired of the dramas now.

On the up side the scenery is stunning. The endless rolling hills make me want to roll down them all day. There are amazing windmills lining every ridge - the fancy new white ones that are so much a part of the landscape now. Saw a mole crossing our path today which was very cute and passed very close to some unfenced cows and bulls who look like they have watched more "pilgrims" pass than they can count.

Each little town is a postcard as it appears in the valley below - ofetn less attractive when you get in amongst its old delapidated streets. The hospialeros (volunteer albergue managers) have been wonderful - some of them outstanding in their helpfulness. The albergues have been far nicer than I expected - clean and modern, as new facilities open up each year to cope with the increase in walkers. The taller men have trouble with the short beds but ive found it fine ;)

Its anzac day on tues (my favourite aus holiday) so am trying to recruit some 2-up players to join me in a game. Not too optimistic for that but will try to get up for my own little dawn service to keep up part of the tradition.

Ok, best get off to bed - sleep is the best thing after a day of walking - that and a glass of local wine to celebrate another day on the road.

Hope everyone is well is Aus and thinking of your all.

take care

Kellie

2006-04-20T20:16:00.000+01:00

Its the 20th and I cant seem to figure out if it is Thursday or Friday!! It doesnt really matter much out here.

Today was a great day and thought I should share it a little.

I have taken it easy the last few days with two shorter walks (18km and 9.5 km) so felt rested and the feet are recovering. I met a lovely girl last night and she said some things to me that made sense.

She walked the Camino 4 years ago and is walking for 2 weeks now as a bit of therapy after a relationship breakup. I was telling her that I find the pressure to walk fast and keep up with the passing crowd annoying and I dont want to feel pressured by it. My plan was always to find my own rhythm and take my time. When you meet great people there is also pressure because you want to keep up with them and enjoy their company for longer. I now have a group of people that I know one day and two days ahead of me and I need to learn to let them go and walk my own camino.

She said that reaching Santiago last time was great but she really felt that she got there too soon........ and there is no need to rush because this is a time to savour. Im glad we had that chat because it reminded me to take my time and to stop "marching".

Last Monday - the day of horrors - in the rain, I saw a Japanese man and he amazed me. We were all in ponchos or rain jackets with our heads down and we wrere all powering to Los Arcos and a place out of the rain. He was walking very slowly and carried an umbrella and I saw him almost tip toeing around the puddles and seemed completely serene.

While walking I thought he was mad and kept striding on. He arrived into Los Arcos only a short time after me, which was amazing b/c he appeared to be so slow. Next I saw him lying on his bunk and softly singing to himself. He was very calm and seemed very relaxed while I felt shattered.

I thought about him this morning and decided to try to find some of that serenity today. I left Logroño and walked easily to Naverette and had an early lunch. A little boy and girl came past and the boy gave me a flower he had picked and kissed me on the cheek! Very cute. I planned to stop after 20km and sleep in a small town for the night but I felt so good when i got there that I decided to go on and ended up walking 30km! the longest day so far and at the end I felt great.

At no stage did I rush and I felt calm and relaxed all day. What a difference.

The Camino is a great teacher and I seem to meet alñl the right people at all the right times. My japanese amigo doesnt even know that he helped me but I have a new plan - keep the peace inside.

Ive still got 6 blisters on each foot but thankfully the treatment is kind of fun! Ill try to get a photo as its a little gruesome to explain - involves needle and thread and looks likt Im sewing myself together ;)

Apparently a storm is coming tonight so I may get to test my serenity in the rain tomorrow

Adios for now

Kellie

New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.

update

2006-04-18T18:15:00.000+01:00

today i have been walking for one week and one day and it feels like a year! so much has happened and so many km´s have been covered, so many conversations, so many faces and so many thoughts.

As I mentioned in my last post, I had an amazing day on monday in that I was completely miserable all day but had the most amazing time (in hindsight of course). I actually woke up angry and couldnt understand why we were getting up in the dark and walking all day on blistered feet. I set off alone as I needed some time out and then was hit by an unnamed sadness and had a little cry. It rained all day and the going was miserable. It was long and boring and wet and cold. THere was nowhere to stop and I walked for 5 hours not saying a word to anyone all day - mainly b/c i didnt pass an English speaker but after a while i didnt care - I needed to be alone.

And after awhile my thoughts became incredibly fluid and I came up with some mini epiphanies. I hope i can write them all down before I forget about them....... One thing I didn realise in that walking makes your body stonger and your mind looser - thoughts flow with ease and you do not feel alone beacuse there is so much happening in your own head if you let it. Walking with others just doesnt give you that luxury!

At one stage all of my energy and mind was in my boots and on my left shin. I was sore and it was really uncomfortable. I was limping and miserable. After about an hour i was pissed off that I was having to walk all day and all i could think about was my pain. I was then aware of the direct connection between the body and the mind and all day I was able to experience the cliche of "mind over matter"....... and found that there was a direct effect of my mind focussing on my body. The minute I thought about my feet I could think of nothing but my pain. When I saw a sign that said 10km to Los Arcos the road seemed longer than ever and unbearable. I had to make a really conscious decision to move away from the physical for the rest of the day. And what happened was bizarre. I became seperated from the lower half of my body. It actually went numb and I was able to continue despite my limping. Towards the end of the day I had this clear impression that I was marching on confidently like a fantasticly pious pilgrim. After I saw people passing me at a casual stroll, I realised that my feet were actually dragging through the puddles and i wasnt " striding" at all. And even when I realised this my mind still registered that I was marching confidently and i could continue on. The minute I got the alburgue I could do no more than shuffle and limp painfully with ice on my shin. (I was lucky to have a massage therapist there that night and booked in. TUrns out he does kinesiology and reiki and he fixed me completely. I walked with renewed energy today and it was as if yesterday didnt exist.)

There were so many experiences in one day that I cant even describe it. A different emotion each hour, a new challenge to work through as my legs just kept moving, moving, moving towards our next stop. LIke I said yesterday, I did ask WHY and there is no answer to that, but today felt like the first day again and I could barely relate to mondays challenges.

Tomorrow is yet another day on the road and we have thankfully agreed to a shorter day and half day rest in Logroño where I can pick up my mail.

Mum is concerned that I am having a hard time and I guess i need to explain that while this is hard I certainly am so grateful to be here. I am logging the good and the bad here beause I want to make sure I can read all sides in the future too. I will try to make my next post more positive..... I can describe some of the characters Ive met or some funnier stories.

When it doesnt rain there is nothing better than to walk through the fields of miaze with the great expanse of sky overhead, the rolling hills and the distance ancient cities ahead, somewhere along this road we are following.

I now have walked and farewelled some new friends who have invited me to stay in touch - a few girls from Madrid who walked for the easter week, the lovely 20yo lucia from italy who wants me to pick fruit with her somewhere and her friend Innazio who said if I visit, his mum will cook pasta for me. I am still walking with Becky & Robin and Marco. We may seperate before Santiago but know we will stay friends and catch each other somewhere along the walk. We all want to continue on to Finisterre if we are able so you never know.

Thats all for now - thanks for reading and sorry for those who I havent been able to reply to yet! I do love reading your comments though - makes my day

Kel

ps: as an aside, mum told me that she won her grade 4 comp in QLD this weekend and came 3rd in the opens, so a big achievement - very proud of you mum. Also Jonathan clapped for the first time last week - what a clevr kid! Actually at one point I thought about him and how I could do that hours walk for him (you need incentives at times) and I immediately accelerated through the pain! So thanks you JS for your moral support!

PSS: Jo - my blisters are on both feet sadly - so my prediction remains unsubstantiated - excpet that it was my left shin - so that might be somethoing ;)

....and then she asked "why"

2006-04-17T20:16:00.000+01:00

Ive learnt many things on the path today. I walked alone for 5 hours and didnt speak to anyone else in that time. It was mediatative and slightly annoying.

I dont have time to tell you all that I learnt today but the summary is that you should not ask WHY we are doing this. Its day 7 and it feels like we have been walking for a year and I started to wonder why i was doing this.....

and there is no answer to that when the road is long and the rain is falling

Off to treat my new blisters and shin splint! ;)

More soon

Kellie

.... and then it rained

2006-04-15T18:15:00.000+01:00

what a day we have had today.

after staying in pamplona for a rest day on Friday we had a bit of a problem findinag a bed as many new Peregrina´s had arrived in town and the beds filled up. The "rules" say that we cant stay more than one night in a refugio without a medical certificate and rather than 5 of us faking an injury, we decided to try elsewhere. THe holiday thwarted our plans and the short story is that after the 3rd refugio denied us a bed we slept under the stars outside. What should have been idyllic and adventurous turned annoying as the rain started to fall, then the wind started to blow and the dew started to settle...... .Good thing we had all become friends as we were all sandwhiched together in our sleeping bags trying to stay warm. (sounds suspiciously like my last stay in pamplona!!)

We creaked and groaned as we got up and set off our days walk with no food and hardly any sleep.

Then it started to rain..... lovely Irish rain that fell softly on our fields. It was beautiful and green and perfect. I felt strong and alive.

Then it got harder, and harder and then we started climbing a hill and then a mountain.......... in the mud.

We charged up the path and made it to the top where, according to the sign, the way of the wind meets the way of the stars. The enormous windmills whooshed and the mist closed in and the rain kept on falling...... but it was wonderful.

The rest of teh walk went quite quickly and I met a Sth African lady to walk the last leg with. You kind of pass people and sometimes fall into step and then part company a few hours later. When I arrived at the refugio I met up with my little band of friends, plus many of the others who I had talked to, or passed or sharded a room with earlier. Its incredibly easy to make friends and I am naturally in heaven!

Treated my first two blisters today - not painful - just a little annoying. With so much mud and rain today we have all been madly washing the cacked on mud from our clothes and boots and the rooms all look like laundry´s.

Tomorrow is Easter Sunday so we need to stock up on food now. Not sure where we are walking to tomorrow and find that I prefer it that way. Better to let the day throw up what it will and enjoy what comes.

So, basically having a ball and cant see why I was worried....... after all....... its JUST walking!

She went up.... she came down

2006-04-11T20:39:00.000+01:00

This will be a quick one but after reading my messages I felt so grateful that so many people were thinking of me on the 11th.

I was feeling very nervous as I packed in Paris and came ny train but St Jean Pied de Port was such a lovely town and I met people straight away that Ifelt better.

I woke this morning to a very misty and cold morning. I mailed some things ahead to lighten my load and then started walking around 9.15 - which is alitle late to start.

I planned to stay in Orisson, 10km up the hill and made it there by midday. Jacques informed me that it does not open for 2 more days - even though I had made a reservation....... seems i had to face the next 17.5 kms!!

<Jacques very kindly drove me up the road for 3km to catch up with the next group of people as I was the last to come up the mountain (due to post office duties etc) and I rec´d some dirty looks for taking a car!! as it was the safer thing to do I decided to not feel guilty!

Then met up with a really lovely bunch of people who I stayed with all day - 2 from Scotland, one form Italy, 1 from Amsterdam, one from Holand and one from Poland! A funny little mix.

We pushed on and after 10 hours !!! finished the pass and came into Roncesvalles at 6.30pm!!

My feet hurt and I am very tired but I am also very proud f us for mak8ing that pass. IT was 1350m at the highest point and covered 27.5km. It was breathtakingly beautiful and we had lots of stops to admire the view.

Now that the hardest part is over I feel more calm and more capable.ç

I feel very lucky that I have such support from my friends and family and I thank you - I think all of those good wishes carried me up that hill today. I found it much easier than I should have - considering my fitness :-)

Love to all and onwards to Santiago!!

Love kellie

2006-04-06T09:35:00.000+01:00

THis is quick one from Paris again.

Day three now and feeling much better after sleep. LOVING walking around the city and that is building up my legs a little. The people at the hostel have been very nice but they have no more room at the inn, so I am off in search of new digs.

Mum forwarded my a number of an old friend who lives in Paris so will call her today. Walking aimlessly has been fun but going somewhere thats for "locals" will be fun too and have more hope of that when actually with a local.

I will go to book in my hammam today and get around the shopping districts. If its not too cold I might even get a bike for a few hours. The weather is lovely and sunny but terribly cold still. Have JUST enough warm clothes and way too many misc items in my pack. Looking forward to a big cull before the walk. REalising how little I need.

Still police everwhere to keep an eye on the general "unrest" that seems to pop up on street corners spontaneously. All harmless by the looks.

All for now - I best get out there and enjoy this lovely day!

Au Revoir

Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

reality check

2006-03-29T00:20:00.000+01:00

After finishing work on Friday I have a week off to finalise all of my to-do list, which is great.

I spent Monday and Tuesday at my aunt and uncles near Nowra and it turns out it was the best thing I could have done, After feeling pretty overwhelmed for the last few weeks I was able to receive the reality check that I needed.

We sat around after dinner talking about family and the holidays that they used to take. When their kids were small they used to jump in the car with only a change of clothes and just drive. Six or seven of them in the car, no tents or equipment, nappies hung out the window to dry, parks and school verandahs utilised for sleeping, the kindness of strangers helping at other times.Their faces lit up talking about it and I could see what an amzing time that was - when it was possible to travel in that way with small kids. Then these two vibrant 70 years olds looked at me and said how wonderful they thought my trip was and I was reminded that this IS exciting - that all the bits and pieces I am worrying about is just fluff.

I made a decision that even though I still feel the butterflies in my stomach that I wont let it get to me. Grateful for the time away too where I could do something that wasn't about the trip! It does get a little all-consuming.

oh, the places you'll go

2006-03-26T07:44:00.000+01:00

"Its a dangerous business, going out your front door. You step into the Road, and if you don't keep your feet, there is no knowing where you might be swept off to"

J.R.R. Tolkien
(1892-1973)

*I gave this quote to my nephew today for his christening with a copy of Dr Suess's book "Oh, the places you'll go" If you haven't read it, you should get a copy - it's brilliant. Actually, on the back of the book it says that it's a "fable for the slightly more able!" so good for adults too.

This quote is what most often comes to mind when I think about what I am setting off to do on the Camino. It feels like I have Bilbo Baggins waving me off - and I can almost see the elves watching over me from the distance.

there are no walks, there are no walks today....

2006-03-26T07:35:00.000+01:00

Had my last day at work on Friday - that was a relief. Now I am officially unemployed. That means I have one less thing to concern myself with, which is a GREAT thing right now.

No walk this weekend. Too many things planned to catch up with people before I go. Something tells me that 5km uphill in the Pyrenees, with 5 more uphill kms to go, will be when I wish that I had one less farewell beer and 10 more walks!

8 sleep to go.

tick, tick, tick......

2006-03-22T01:04:00.000+01:00

Today I tuned in to a soft little "tick, tick, tick" in the back of my head...... "time is passing, not long now, you must be getting excited".... tick, tick, tick.... " have you got everything ready, do you know any spanish".... tick, tick tick.... "are you fit, have you been walking, do you have enough money" .......tick, tick, tick.......

with every well meaning question i am forced to take stock of progress:
* gear bought and tested - check
* camera bought and tested - check (all seems to work well - have practiced and like results)
* practice walk with full pack - check (well, only one with a full pack- and everyone seems to recommend long walks EVERY day! that hasnt been possible and have settled for once a week! )
* transport to Pyrenees and accomm booked for two nights - check (while winging it is fun, I have booked two hostels at the very start of the walk that I really love the look of. Thats my treat to myself)
* spanish language CD"s bought - check (but i failed there - still only know how to say hello in the morning, afternoon and night, order a ham and cheese sandwhich and a large beer!)
* weight in pack still too heavy - check - (have a list of cull-able items so that is ok)
* more jobs left than days to complete them - check (figuring out the essential from the desirable and working from there

Am down to my "first draft" in packing and know there is still some more that I can cull. Because I will be mailing some things ahead to pick up in Santiago, I don't mind saving the final pack til I get there and have a better idea of the weather and conditions. I can then decide what is necessary and what is packed purely for comfort or vanity! Am taking extra clothes and a pair of shoes for Paris so I dont feel too daggy. All is well-loved stuff that I can either mail ahead or donate to the local waste disposal.

I can tell that most of this tension that I am feeling is from the waiting; when you are more or less ready tro go but you need to tread water for the last few weeks, tying up loose ends until the plane leaves..... At the moment I go home from work and faff about moving things from here to there, sorting, restacking, minimising, weighing, repacking etc. My brain can't seem to handle anything more complicated than these repetitive and mostly unnecessary tasks. Dont even bother asking me what I feel like for dinner or if i want a drink or what i want to watch on tv..... can't answer that either. Very grateful that everyone around me is doing their best to make allowances for my vagueness!

On the up side - Just heard back from a daughter of mums friend who lives in Paris and we will try to catch up on the w/e that I am in the city. Will be nice to have company to see some of the sights. I also have had contact from the American girl, Kimberli, who I have been emailing and it looks like we are starting the walk one day apart so no doubt we will be thrown together at some stage.

12 sleeps to go....

tick, tick, tick...

Quiet anxiety

2006-03-20T01:40:00.000+01:00

In these few moments between waking up and realising that it is a work day, to actually rolling out of bed, when my brain starts to warm up for a new day, is normally a peaceful time where I have a bit of a stretch and yawn and consider what I have to get done over the next 24 hours.

Today, those few moments ran me down with an anxiety that I haven't felt in a long time. It hit me that the simple luxuries of having a double bed to myself, of sheets and a doona, of a house and a car, or a family and friends close at hand, of space and privacy and an income and job - these will all be gone from my life in 14 days time.

In it's place I will have freedom, new faces and adventures EVERY day, a simple life and contact with kind strangers - and all of this I know I love, but none of these positives went through my head in those few moments. Just the the sly creeping fear that I may not be up to it, that it is hard, that it is lonely, that I may not be able to go the distance......

Thankfully, I found a blog when I got to work and I have been reading about another person's feelings of dread, fear and lonliness before her walk and how the circumstances on the road eased them and replaced them with new friends, amazing experiences and an easier passage across Spain than she imagined.

This was exactly what I needed to read today.....

21 days to go

2006-03-13T00:27:00.000+01:00

Thursday 9th March - while I dont really want to make too many plans I also dont want to miss out on any potential discounts along the way. I was advised to buy my train ticket to SJPP early to get said discount. Then paid an extra 10 Euros so that I got a flexible ticket. Then if I love or hate Paris I can come and go more easily. All booked to leave Paris on April 10 to have me ready to start my walk on April 11!

Friday 10th March- to avoid any more cleaning, packing, planning or other misc travel related activity, I took myself and the free movie pass I was given for Christmas to Miranda for a 6pm nana session of Brokeback Mountain. I really enjoyed the movie and found it quite moving and its left a fair impression. I had a half hour to kill before the movie so I did a spot of window shopping at JF Hifi and accidently bought a camera! Not your average impulse buy, I know, but I knew the camera that I wanted and the price was right and the sales assistant was the least smarmy of them all.

Saturday 11th March-
AM: shop shop shop..... How can I still need MORE stuff? Did a few laps of the "outdoor" stores on Kent Street and after much indecision I bought a pair of shorts, a walking top and a walking pole! I had sworn against these as I didnt want to look too "German" (can I say that without it sounding like a generalisation?? I hope so) BUT it was only $35 and it it helps me survive Day 1 on the Pyrenees I am satisfied. I might learn to love it afterall. I also bought a large pack bag. These sooper dooper light packs dont fold away in to a plane/train/automobile friendly bag that tucks in the straps and there is also no way to lock them securely from the curious or criminal, so I had to buy another bag to put my first bag in! Oh, and a padlock to secure it all away! Who said backpacking was a budget option?

PM: pack pack pack - how to fit all my purchases in one pack and maintain a sub 7kg weight! I now have (almost) everything (still have sandles to go - they are sooooooo ugly I am having trouble spending $145 on something I hate the sight of!). It all fit with room to spare. My toiletries are compact yet complete, the medical supplies are no bigger than playing cards and I dont have any/many "just in case items". I will be very daggy but from what Ive heard I will be in good company!

Sunday 12th March-
AM: the first "fully loaded" practice walk. 33*C prediction meant that I started early to avoid the worst heat. With water I think I came in at about 8.5kg or so and it was manageable. Took lots of small breaks for snacks and photos and that helps the feet at. Took the last leg of the gorgeous Coast Walk from Otford to Burning Palms. I was going to push on to North Era for a better length walk but as the entire first half was downhill I needed to save some energy for the uphill walk out. Lunch on the beach in Burning Palms was lovely. Had one end of the beach to myself and only a few hungry ants came to say hi. Emptied a tin of tuna and cut up a small avacado on my roll and had a leisurely lunch, shoes off, wind in my hair etc etc etc. It wasnt the longest walk I could have done but good to know that the weight is managable.

As I got to the top of the escarpment I ran into a couple who are starting their Camino in Po a week after I start in St Jean Pied de Port. Who knows - I could run into them again! I seem to be meeting fellow Peregrinos everywhere!

PM: Received an email from the hostel in Orisson, the place I want to stay 10km uphill from SJPP in the Pyrenees, to say that I have a bed reserved for me! Thats good to have arranged. The Napolean Route which goes directly over the mountains is the most scenic and spectacular part of the whole Camino but is also the most dangerous. If the weather closes in you can get in serious trouble so I am sending out sunny thoughts for April 11/12 so that I can do this crossing. Circling eagles, vultures, cows, horses, flowers and a view across France and Spain are the main attractions and I really want to experience that!

back story

2006-03-02T23:46:00.000+01:00

Im going to pop bits in here that decsibe the walk in ways that I can understand and may help others to see what I am doing and perhaps a little of the "why"..... This is from the above website promoting a hostel that I would like to stay in on my first night on the Road.

*****************************************************
"To take the road" is a well known metaphor for life. For many people their decision to walk to Santiago de Compostela, coincides with a special occasion or a new phase in their lives.

The Camino has not always been just a walk to honour God. There were also other motives, like: adventure and battle (the Camino played an important role in the recapturing from the Moors of present-day Spain), penance (many people walked the Camino as a penalty for their sins), money (richer people arranged others do their penalty), business (in the past also the Camino was big business for cities like Santiago de Compostela). In certain periods there were so many people walking to and fro Santiago, that the authorities were afraid that the social order could become endangered.

Meeting people already

2006-03-01T04:33:00.000+01:00

I have been lurking in the Santiagobis Yahoo Group for a few months now and learning LOADS of great thinsg from people who have done the walk before, but now I have met someone who will be starting around the same time as me. Kimberli is flying out of LA and we land in Paris on the same day. I had planned to be in Paris til the 10th, she planned on leaving on the 8th. We may get a chance to meet up in Paris before we set off on the walk , which would be fun, but if we don't its comforting to know that there is another 30-something year old girl, travelling alone, seeking adventure and clarity within a few days walk of me.

We are sending emails to each other and it's exciting to see how easy it is to strike up simple relationships when you have a common thread.

Makes it all seem a little less lonely.

practice walk

2006-02-13T05:00:00.000+01:00

The last two weekend i have walked part of the Coast Walk in the Royal National Park and Im really impressed. Week 1 i walked Bundeena to Wattamolla which was about 16km and on sat i started at Garie Beach and got to Burning Palms beach. This week was less km's but very hilly - up up up the headland then a steep decline on the other side, across a beach then up and over the next headland 4 times....... the final up-hill on the way back nearly did me in though. Sun was hot and I was a bit over it all by then!

Will give Garie to Wattamolla a go next time. Thats a lovely section of the walk too.

I love the people you meet along the way who are a mix of locals, o/s visitors in awe of the views, campers who have hiked in for the night, couples who seem to have different degrees of attraction to the great outdoors, groups taking a hike, adventurous surfers seeking a break away from crowds etc.

Then little ol' me on a day hike wondering what on earth she has got herself into :-)

One pilgrims lovely camino photos

2006-01-24T01:39:00.000+01:00

I was scooting around yesterday for some personal accounts from other people about their Camino in Spain and came across this man's site:

http://www.shinealight.com/write/camino/index.htm

I was mostly blown away by his beautiful photos. Im uploading them here as a bit of inspiration as I'd be so happy if I could even get one or two that are this lovely.

books and training and planning

2005-12-01T03:42:00.003+01:00

Books Im Reading:
Cole & Davis "Walking The Camino" Guide Book - seems to have great detail on the route. Not sure if it will be current enough for help with accommodation but will take it with me and pass on if it gets too heavy to carry. Would be nice to be able to have some history and facts on the places I walk past/through

Jack Hitt, "Off The Road" - a lighthearted look at one man's journey. Parts of it made me a little uncomfortable...... there was a fair bit of cynicism and one upmanship amongst the group he walked with and I hope I dont experience too much of that. I think Im hoping for more positive relationships.

"Pray for me in Santiago" - one couple's journey. Have put it down for a bit and will come back to it.

Confraternity of St James Guide Book for Camino Frances and Finesterre. The ones I am taking with me on the walk as they are updated annually and have all the distances and alburgues listed.

My Fitness Levels Now:

Pretty poor actually. I can walk for a few hours without any trouble but not sure how I will go with 6-7 hours a day. I have done a 2-3 hour walk every weekend lately plus netball on Tues nights and walking to work. Now that I have moved back to Kirrawee I cant do that walk anymore so need to find a new way to sneak more excercise into my week.

To get my thighs and knees a better chance I want to do some weight work and presses etc. I need to get that started so its not all talk. Its time like this I wish i was more committed to long term schedules.

This is what amazes me about my decision to do this walk...... I have always dealt with the fact that I am more of a sprinter than a stayer..... meaning that I can get jobs done well if its quick but I tend to loose interest if I need to stay motivated over a longer period of time. THis applies to hobbies, bike rides, kayaking, weight loss, jobs etc. Now I commit myself to a walk that will take at least 30 days to complete and I can't think of any other activity that is so solitary, repetitious and requiring commitment.

Maybe its time for me to learn. Its strange, but there is no doubt at my ability to complete the journey and considering that this is based on no precedent its a pretty big thing to believe in.

GOALS:

I am trying really hard to not have any expectations of this trip. really hard. I feel like im at a giant round about and there are dozens of exits and I could do down any of these roads. Some road point backwards and don't represent new challenges, other veer off in directions that I have never been before and I didnt even realise that that road existed.

I read a great passage in a Richard Bach book that descibed our future as a road map. All of the possible road and alternative routes already exist, like all the roads in the world are already there, but you don't experience that road until you actually travel down it - then it becomes part of your experience. I really liked his imagery. It halped to think of these roads as opportunities rather than "right" and "wrong" choices.

I am definately at a point where i can make some amazing discoveries and I am really excited about that.... even if they are all internal discoveries.

The most common prediction is that Ill come back with a spaniard and that will make everyhing great but i really dont have that expectation. Prob the one I cant let go of easily is my desire to realize what purpose the next part of my life will have.... will i work for money or work for others, or will i find a way to do both? will i use different skills to the ones ive used in the past or rediscover a past career direction? can i find a talent in me that i can turn into a business - something ive always wanted to do? Will I meet people who will inspire me to try new things and take some risks with my life?

Im happy to hold on to those thoughts as long as I dont feel disappointed if i come home as clueless as i am now.

the other advantage of being able to stay in spain after the walk is that i will have some space and time to digest what i have seen and experienced. i suspect it could be a journey that stirs things up a bit and that is a great incentive. The main reason for deciding to do this trip now is that i am bored with life as it is. When people ask me what ive been up to i draw a blank.... there is nothing interesting to share because even i am bored with it - why would i bore someone else with the finer details???

PLANNING SO FAR:
OK, the planning is coming along. The travel insurance is purchased, i have a short list for the flights, after my birthday tomorrow I am allowed to shop for the gear that i still need. ive picked out the books, jacket, pants and socks that i want. Its all pretty pricey but at leats its all light weight, quick drying stuff that will be easier to carry.

The pack is bought and I love it. I doubt i will feel the same after carrying it for so long but its also v light which will help. My hat, sleeping bag and some clothes have already started milling around in the wardrobe in nervous anticipation. When the rest of their travel buddies have been bought we can all start going on walks together to see that they all get along and that they dont cause me any trouble.

THe camera investigations are coming along - I have my heart set on a pricey model and think i need to reassess my needs and budget. i might be able to save a little duty free as well.

ok, thats all for now - will upadte when i have some more bits finalised :-)

where do i begin?

2005-11-17T01:57:00.000+01:00

In May 2006 I am walking 800km from St Jean Pied de Port, over the Pyrenees, across Northern Spain and into Santiago de Compostela.

The Journey will take approx 30 days if I walk 20km per day. It will take longer if I stop to smell a few roses, which I hope to do.

I have delayed starting this written journey as I can't yet explain why I am doing this and I figured that that was the best place to start. I think I ll have to come back to that another time.

I have been reading a lot of information on various websites that have helped a great deal with my planning, but it was one thing that I read today that helped me to get started. In a forum on www.caminosantiago.com a thread covered people's most amazing experiences on the Road. Reading them brought tears to me eyes - Im not sure why - perhaps I understood what they were saying and missed the contact with kind strangers and a simpler pace of life. One persons experience struck me as a good place to start this blog:

"The Camino is a gift. Why do so many from every country, people and tongue walk the Road? You have been chosen to do this. You did not choose the Road, the Road chose you. The Camino does not end in Santiago, it begins there. "

I am so excited about this adventure and I am sure that it will be a really amazing highlight in my life. I really can't wait to get started.

At this stage I am busy preparing my pack and shoes and other practical items. With that mostly under control, I now really want to start on my physical preparation and read more about the towns that I will visit and some of the history.

Ultreya

what a month

2005-09-05T02:55:00.001+01:00

september is shaping up to be quite a month for me......
It seems that the early mid life crisis that i detected deep within me earlier in the year has leached its way to the surface and it is slowly oozing out of my pores..... slowly and incessantly.

Firstly, my boredom with work has hit an all time low so I have been looking for more exciting ways to spend my time. No other occupation has leapt out at me so that was put on hold.

Then I watched an episode of Enough Rope last week and was amazed by the young woman who was talking about her past few years with the various cancers that keep cropping up and how she had treatment for one cancer wile she was still pregnant with her little boy. I was so touched by her wish to see him grow up and what kind of man he will be..... and you could see that the chances for that were pretty slim.

Then I used some down time to flick through some old diaries that I had picked up from my mums (now that she is clearing out her storage, all these little treasures are surfacing). As I went through some old travel diaries I was reinfected with the joy of the unknown and how wonderful it is to be on the road.

All these things stewed somewhere in my subconscious until I had a light bulb moment - a corner was turned and the answer was laid out in front of me.....I have been wanting to do the Camino walk in Spain for years and always put it off til I was older..... well, sadly I am now older but have found myself in a situation where I have no debts, no dependents and no real responsibilities tying me to my home. NOW is the best time to get this trip under way.SO, after quietly freaking out I realised that this is possible..... I have bounced the idea of a bunch of people in the last few days and so far only one negative response and about 10 "go for it" responses.

So, the plan is to pack up the job (either at the end of the year or just before leaving), find someone to take over my rent while im away, start exercising and saving and then head off in April/May next year.

The walk itself is about 900km (like Sydney to Melbourne) and will take about 30 days. Im planning on allowing about 6 weeks so I can stop and play if I find towns that look cute. It wont cost much as it's a pilgrimage and pilgrims are treated with respect and receive cheap and simple accommodation and food for the duration.Ive never understood why ANYONE would go on a long walk, and I guess I still don't, but there is a part of me that knows that I have to do this and soon.

.... off to plan my 06 adventure :-)